Italiani all’estero, i diari raccontano – Italians abroad, stories from their diaries – My Styling

È stato presentato in Farnesina – Roma – l’11 giugno 2019 il lavoro prodotto per conto del Ministero degli Affari Esteri che mi ha visto collaborare nella ricerca e selezione dei costumi in qualità di power dresses e stylist. Il video, realizzato da Imaginapulia, (foto backstage attore Livio Berardi) descrive con pathos i percorsi esistenziali di quanti tra fine ‘800 e ‘900 hanno abbandonato l’Italia per trasferirsi all’estero.

Riaffiorano così dagli autentici diari di queste persone – custoditi nella Fondazione Archivio Diaristico Nazionale di Pieve Santo Stefano (AR).  – racconti e storie di vita che ci immergono in paure, aspettative appagate o disattese, fatica, senso di inadeguatezza e disagio, disperazione, voglia di tornare.

Nel video, oltre ai costumi, anche oggetti provenienti dal passato che ho appositamente selezionato dal mio archivio, tra questi scarpine anni ’30 per bimba in vernice nera, occhialini inizi ‘900, foulard e occhiali da sole per donna dagli anni ’50. Un pettine da viaggio, oggetti che rievocano in modo segnico quanto contenuto nei racconti di chi è partito all’estero nella speranza di una vita migliore.

The work produced on behalf of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs was presented in the Farnesina – Rome – on 11 June 2019, which saw me collaborating in the research and selection of costumes as power dresses and stylists. The video, made by Imaginapulia (backstage photo actor Livio Berardi) describes with pathos the existential paths of those between the end of the 1800s and the 1900s who left Italy to move abroad. Thus resurface from the authentic diaries of these people – kept in the National Archive Diary Foundation of Pieve Santo Stefano (AR) – describe stories and life stories that plunge us into fears, fulfilled or unfulfilled expectations, fatigue, a sense of inadequacy and unease, desperation, desire to come back.In the video, in addition to the costumes, there are also items from the past that I have specially selected from my archive, including little shoes from the 30s for girls in black patent leather, glasses from the early 1900s, scarves and sunglasses for women from the 50s. A travel comb, objects that symbolically recall what is contained in the stories of those who went abroad in the hope of a better life.

Video: I DIARI RACCONTANO

Annunci

Some of my styling. Photoshooting in Berlin.

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Some of the styling I created for a photoshooting in Berlin. Vintage clothes and accessories all from my archive.

Alcuni degli styling che ho creato per lo shooting fotografico realizzato a Berlino. Abiti e accessori d’epoca, dal mio archivio.

Photography Suzana Holtgrave

Mua – Hair Noriko Takayama

Models: Iconic Management – Berlin

in collaboration with Amanda Kastrati and Andreas Weigelt (location)

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STYLES – GENRES – DISGUISES: Bari International Gender film festival

Il prossimo 25 settembre alle ore 15.00 prende il via la conferenza dedicata al tema Gender in occasione del Bari International Film Festival,rassegna che esamina, ricerca, studia,capolavori della storia del cinema in rapporto a genere, identità e orientamento sessuale. Location di questo evento lo storico Palazzo delle Poste di Bari in Piazza Cesare Battisti, 1. Il palazzo è sede dell’Università degli Studi ed è un meraviglioso esempio dell’architettura razionalista fascista, Luciano Lapadula – storico della moda e scrittore – analizzerà il tema “Stili – Generi – Travestimenti“. Lo studio dei segni legati alla moda, al trucco, alle acconciature che a partire dal 1968 hanno diviso e mescolato generi e simbologia sessuale, da Twiggy a Bowie, da Coccinelle ad Amanda Lear. L’intervento di Luciano Lapadula è tratto dal suo libro “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“, acquistabile al link: https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

 

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Ex Palazzo delle Poste di bari – veduta interna

On September 25th at 3.00 pm, the Gender conference will start afor Bari International Film Festival, a review that examines, researches, studies, masterpieces of the history of cinema in relation to gender, identity and sexual orientation. Inside the historic Palazzo delle Poste in Bari (Cesare Battisti Sq, 1), a marvelous example of the fascist rationalist art, Luciano Lapadula – fashion historian and writer – will analyze the theme “Styles – Genres – Disguises”. The study of signs related to fashion, makeup, hairstyles that since 1968 has divided and mixed genres and sexual symbology, from Twiggy to Bowie, from Coccinelle to Amanda Lear. Luciano Lapadula’s speech is based on his book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“, available at the following link: https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

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william dafoe

Willem Dafoe all’inaugurazione del Festival

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https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun: when art meets fashion

luciano lapadula moda china actress anna may wong blogger chinese 20s 1920s blog fashion magazine culture creepy macabre grotesque

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) è senza dubbio la più significativa artista donna nella Francia del Rococò. Emancipata, dotata di una raffinata bellezza e di un talento straordinario, ha ritratto personaggi illustri e alla moda durante il regno di Maria Antonietta proseguendo nel periodo Neoclassico. Ho selezionato alcune sue opere analizzando dettagli che raccontano stili e tendenze sorprendenti.

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) is undoubtedly the most significant female artist in Rococo France. Emancipated, endowed with a refined beauty and an extraordinary talent, she portrayed illustrious and fashionable characters during the reign of Marie Antoinette, continuing in that Neoclassical period that is very present in the artist’s canvases. I have selected some of her works by analyzing amazing details.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louis

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour 1778 Elisabeth Louise Vigée

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louise Vigée baroque

1794 Aglae de Gramont, née de Polignac, duchesse de Guiche by Louise Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun

Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, La duchesse de Guise, 1794

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun sefl-portrait 1781

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait 1781 self portrait earring blog fashion history storia moda luciano lapadula wordpress

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782 hat straw flowers moda storia luciano lapadula blog blogger history fashion

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Portrait of Marie Gabrielle de Gramont, Duchesse de Caderousse, 1784 — Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun

PORTRAIT OF MARIE GABRIELLE DE GRAMONT DUCHESSE DE CADEROUSSE fashion history storia della moda art artwork blog blogger luciano lapadula

Baroness Bonne-Marie-Joséphine-Gabrielle Bernard de Boulainvilli

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Le brun

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Lebrun det fashion bodice red dress luciano lapadula art blog blogger history fashion moda storia

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789

Madame Vigée-Lebrun and her daughter Jeanne Lucie Louise – 1789

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789 neoclassis direttorio

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand, 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793 fashion luciano lapadula blog blogger magazine history moda storia scrittore

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Hairstyles Revival in time

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Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

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Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

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Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

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Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

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Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

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1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

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Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are in 2018 on #Valentino runway

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The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume History“.

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Divas of Fascist Cinema

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography history blogger libro

Il volto scolpito nel marmo, uno sguardo insieme sensuale e spietato che allude all’erotismo più feroce di quei giorni bui. Le labbra violacee evidenziano un sorriso amaro, sprezzante, fiero del proprio sublime incanto. Sono le dive del cinema fascista, in un’Italia umiliata dalla guerra regnano sulle superfici dell’illusione per regalare un sogno a chi di illusione perisce.

The face sculpted in marble, a sensual and ruthless glance that alludes to the most ferocious eroticism of those dark days. The violet lips show a bitter, contemptuous smile, proud of its own sublime charm. They are the divas of Fascist cinema, in an Italy humiliated by war thay all reigns on the surfaces of illusion to give a dream to those who are diyng by illusion.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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alida valli fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Alida Valli – From a Fresh Look to a Dark Lady – Venturini

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography

Alida Valli. Ghergo

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Luisa Ferida

Leda Gloria

Seductive Leda Gloria – Ghergo

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Leda Gloria – Venturini

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Elisa Cegani – Ph unknown

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Elisa Cegani from in “LA CORONA DI FERRO” di Alessandro Blasetti, 1941. Winner of Coppa Mussolini award

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Clara Calami: the first italian “Dark Lady” actress

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Clara Calamai. I think she worn Ferragamo platform shoes. Could be now

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Elsa De Giorgi – Peek-a-Boo hairstyle. Ph Venturini

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A perfect face. Elsa De Giorgi

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Amazing Beauty: Doris Duranti, the most loved by dictators

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Doris Duranti, the fascist actress, by Elio Luxardo

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Isa Mirande: the platinum italian Dietrich

isa miranda marlene dietrich nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography blogger hairstyle make

Isa Miranda, who arrived in Hollywood, was greeted with clamor by the public and by Paramount

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20s Flapper girls from China

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Una nuova tipologia di donna nasce in Cina durante gli anni ’20. La sfrenatezza della vita occidentale, legata al ritrovato benessere, invade l’Oriente e la sua moda che lentamente è sedotta dall’immagine à la Garçonne. Il pesante cerone, gli ombrellini di carta, i fascianti kimono in seta cedono il passo ad impalpabili abiti  in chiffon, a trucchi meno vistosi, ad acconciature “alla maschietta”. E si fa strada ad Hollywood la prima tra le attrici cinesi, Anna May Wong, destinata a divenire un’icona di stile per il mondo intero. Di seguito una selezione di immagini che testimoniano questa rivoluzione sociale e vestimentaria in Cina.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

A kind of woman was born in China during the 1920s. The wildness of Western life, linked to the refounded welfare, invades the Orient and its fashion that was slowly seduced by the style “à la Garçonne”. The heavy make-up, the paper umbrellas, the kimono silk bindings give way to impalpable chiffon dresses, to less conspicuous make-up, to “boyish” hairstyles. And the first of the Chinese actresses, Anna May Wong, was making her way to Hollywood, destined to become a style icon for the whole world. Below for you a selection of images that testify to this social and clothing chinese revolution.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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Illustrazione cinese anni ’20. Due ballerine indossano un abito tradizionale chiamato Cheongsam, rivisitato per un look occidentale tipico della “Flapper Girl”. I capelli sono corti e in stile Garçonne. Calzature T-Bar. 

Cheongsam china shangai dancer 1920s 20s blog blogger fashion history luciano lapadula

Chinese illustration from the 20s. Two female dancers wear a dress called Cheongsam, rivisited in Western look, typical of the Flapper Girls. The hair is short and in Garçonne style. T-Bar shoes

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Ni Hongyan, Chinese film actress popular in the Chinese film industry in the late 1920s. Fashion Magazine and Amazing Belt (seems to be a modern Alaya!) for this beautiful girl in her swimsuit

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Silk Socks, Waves Hairstyle and Cigarette for a smoking flapper

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Huang Huilan wife of the  Chinese diplomat Wellington Koo, popular in the western world as Madame Wellington Koo or Hui-lan Koo

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still Madame Wellington Koo

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Two asian ladies in 20s fashionable outfits

Here is Anna May Wong visiting Chicago 20s china fashion 1920s history chinese women

March 25, 1928. Here is Anna May Wong visiting Chicago. Trousers, Mary Jane shoes and Cloche hat for the first Chinese American Hollywood movie star, as well as the first Chinese American actress to gain international recognition

Anna May Wong

“The Dangerous” Anna May Wong

the dangerous Anna May Wong

Anna May Wong a glamorous Femme Fatale. 1928

Anna May Wong -1929 photo by Paul Tanqueray cloche fur

Anna May Wong in 20s

Anna May Wong -1929 photo by Paul Tanqueray

Anna May Wong -1929 photo by Paul Tanqueray

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The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“.

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