STYLES – GENRES – DISGUISES: Bari International Gender film festival

Il prossimo 25 settembre alle ore 15.00 prende il via la conferenza dedicata al tema Gender in occasione del Bari International Film Festival,rassegna che esamina, ricerca, studia,capolavori della storia del cinema in rapporto a genere, identità e orientamento sessuale. Location di questo evento lo storico Palazzo delle Poste di Bari in Piazza Cesare Battisti, 1. Il palazzo è sede dell’Università degli Studi ed è un meraviglioso esempio dell’architettura razionalista fascista, Luciano Lapadula – storico della moda e scrittore – analizzerà il tema “Stili – Generi – Travestimenti“. Lo studio dei segni legati alla moda, al trucco, alle acconciature che a partire dal 1968 hanno diviso e mescolato generi e simbologia sessuale, da Twiggy a Bowie, da Coccinelle ad Amanda Lear. L’intervento di Luciano Lapadula è tratto dal suo libro “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“, acquistabile al link: https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

 

Salone centrale centro studenti_1palazzo poste luciano lapasula storia moda bari

Ex Palazzo delle Poste di bari – veduta interna

On September 25th at 3.00 pm, the Gender conference will start afor Bari International Film Festival, a review that examines, researches, studies, masterpieces of the history of cinema in relation to gender, identity and sexual orientation. Inside the historic Palazzo delle Poste in Bari (Cesare Battisti Sq, 1), a marvelous example of the fascist rationalist art, Luciano Lapadula – fashion historian and writer – will analyze the theme “Styles – Genres – Disguises”. The study of signs related to fashion, makeup, hairstyles that since 1968 has divided and mixed genres and sexual symbology, from Twiggy to Bowie, from Coccinelle to Amanda Lear. Luciano Lapadula’s speech is based on his book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“, available at the following link: https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

luciano lapadula big festival bari conferenza storia moda gay

william dafoe

Willem Dafoe all’inaugurazione del Festival

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https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

Annunci

Hairstyles Revival in time

revival hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

1920s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 20s cher louise brooks hair

Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

1940s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 40s pinup

Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy elle pageboy

Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy

Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

katy perry hedy lamarr hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses makeup hair waves 40s 2018 2019 2017

1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

eve salvail 1994 dior 2018 hairstyle men gay sex sexuality androginy 90s

Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are in 2018 on #Valentino runway

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Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.
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The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume History“.

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20s Flapper girls from China

luciano lapadula moda china actress anna may wong blogger chinese 20s 1920s blog fashion magazine culture creepy macabre grotesque

Una nuova tipologia di donna nasce in Cina durante gli anni ’20. La sfrenatezza della vita occidentale, legata al ritrovato benessere, invade l’Oriente e la sua moda che lentamente è sedotta dall’immagine à la Garçonne. Il pesante cerone, gli ombrellini di carta, i fascianti kimono in seta cedono il passo ad impalpabili abiti  in chiffon, a trucchi meno vistosi, ad acconciature “alla maschietta”. E si fa strada ad Hollywood la prima tra le attrici cinesi, Anna May Wong, destinata a divenire un’icona di stile per il mondo intero. Di seguito una selezione di immagini che testimoniano questa rivoluzione sociale e vestimentaria in Cina.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

A kind of woman was born in China during the 1920s. The wildness of Western life, linked to the refounded welfare, invades the Orient and its fashion that was slowly seduced by the style “à la Garçonne”. The heavy make-up, the paper umbrellas, the kimono silk bindings give way to impalpable chiffon dresses, to less conspicuous make-up, to “boyish” hairstyles. And the first of the Chinese actresses, Anna May Wong, was making her way to Hollywood, destined to become a style icon for the whole world. Below for you a selection of images that testify to this social and clothing chinese revolution.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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Illustrazione cinese anni ’20. Due ballerine indossano un abito tradizionale chiamato Cheongsam, rivisitato per un look occidentale tipico della “Flapper Girl”. I capelli sono corti e in stile Garçonne. Calzature T-Bar. 

Cheongsam china shangai dancer 1920s 20s blog blogger fashion history luciano lapadula

Chinese illustration from the 20s. Two female dancers wear a dress called Cheongsam, rivisited in Western look, typical of the Flapper Girls. The hair is short and in Garçonne style. T-Bar shoes

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Ni Hongyan, Chinese film actress popular in the Chinese film industry in the late 1920s. Fashion Magazine and Amazing Belt (seems to be a modern Alaya!) for this beautiful girl in her swimsuit

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Silk Socks, Waves Hairstyle and Cigarette for a smoking flapper

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Huang Huilan wife of the  Chinese diplomat Wellington Koo, popular in the western world as Madame Wellington Koo or Hui-lan Koo

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still Madame Wellington Koo

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Two asian ladies in 20s fashionable outfits

Here is Anna May Wong visiting Chicago 20s china fashion 1920s history chinese women

March 25, 1928. Here is Anna May Wong visiting Chicago. Trousers, Mary Jane shoes and Cloche hat for the first Chinese American Hollywood movie star, as well as the first Chinese American actress to gain international recognition

Anna May Wong

“The Dangerous” Anna May Wong

the dangerous Anna May Wong

Anna May Wong a glamorous Femme Fatale. 1928

Anna May Wong -1929 photo by Paul Tanqueray cloche fur

Anna May Wong in 20s

Anna May Wong -1929 photo by Paul Tanqueray

Anna May Wong -1929 photo by Paul Tanqueray

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Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.
Shop my Book

The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“.

Click on the pic for info.

Divas Beyond a Veil.

Mistero, ambiguità e seduzione sono peculiarità che appartengono a molte tra le star del cinema. Da sempre, e con molta frequenza, la loro immagine conturbante è amplificata grazie all’utilizzo di veli che ricoprono il volto, conferendo carisma e magnetismo.

Il drappo di una veste, per merito del cinema e della fotografia, ha perso la funzione di mero rivestimento del corpo per esibire lo stesso con sensualità, svelandolo in segreto. Non più tessuto utile a coprire, bensì pizzo, rete, seta adoperati per svestire i soggetti fotografati, lasciando immaginare allo spettatore fattezze, carattere, atmosfere inattese e maliziose.

Lo sguardo dell’icona giunge a noi filtrato dal lembo di un tessuto prezioso, la cui grana seduce e mantiene le distanze dal piacere accennato, che resta in ombra.

Ecco alcune immagini che ho raccolto.

************

Often the provocative image of Diva is amplified by the use of veils that cover her face, conferring charme and mistery. Thanks to the cinema and photography, this garment lost its only function of dress to exhibit the body with sensuality, unveiling a secret. No more useful fabrics to cover, but lace, net, silk used to undress the actress in movies and pictures, leaving viewers to imagine the features, character, atmospheres.

Gloria Swanson photographed by Edward Steichen for a 1924 Vanity Fair.:

Gloria Swanson by Edward Steichen, 1924

Gloria Swanson by Ellen Graham:

Gloria Swanson by Ellen Graham

Lili Damita @@@@@......http://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1920s-fashion-in-photographs/  ......€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€:

Lili Damita, 20s

Joan Crawford in the 1920s, Photo by Ruth Harriet Louise #1920s #lace #hat:

Joan Crawford by Ruth Harriet Louise, late 20s

Brigitte Helm| 1906-1966 | a German actress, best remembered for her dual role as Maria and her double, the Maschinenmensch, in Fritz Lang's 1927 silent film Metropolis:

Brigitte Helm, 1927

anna mae wong:

Anna May Wong, Limehouse Blues, Travis Banton, 1934

Anna May Wong -

Anna May Wong, 1934

Jean Harlow:

Jean Harlow, 30s

PETRICHOR:

Bette Davis, 30s

Classic Beauties : Marlene Dietrich:

Marlene Dietrich, 1940, John Engstead

Marlene Dietrich in

Marlene Dietrich, “Just a Gigolo” 1978

Frances Farmer, 1930s - They made a bio-film about her life (very tragic) Jessica Lang played Frasncis:

Frances Farmer early 40s

Ava Gardner:

Ava Gardner, 40s

Actress Lana Turner in a wonderful polka dot veil adorned hat, 1940s. #vintage #hats #1940s:

Lana Turner, 40s

Detail of a photo of Vivien Leigh by Cecil Beaton for Vogue, Paris, November 1944:

Vivien Leigh by Ceceil Beaton, Vogue, 1944

Gina Lollobrigida:

Gina Lollobrigida, 50s

Audrey Hepburn photographed at Ealing Studios, London, 1951 Classic Hollywood Stars:

Audrey Hepburn, Ealing Studios, London, 1951

Audrey, with the infamous Givenchy mask in How To Steal a Million. This movie is wonderful.:

Audry – Givenchy, “How to steal a Million”, 1966

Capucine in Marie-Christiane, 1953. Photo Guy Arsac:

Capucine, Guy Arsac, 1953

Marilyn Monroe photographed by Bert Stern, 1962:

Marilyn Monroe by Bert Stern, 1962

Marilyn Monroe was looked at as a fashion icon and she has also had a great impact on what we wear today.- Caroline m:

Marilyn as a Virgin?

Sophia Loren, 1960s.:

Sophia Loren, early 60s

Sophia Loren:

Sophia Loren with veil turban

Virna Lisi, reportage sul set di “Oggi, domani, dopodomani” (Eduardo De Filippo, 1965)  Photo Angelo Frontoni:

Virna Lisi, “Oggi, domani e dopodomani”, 1965

Brigitte Bardot - 1960's:

Brigitte Bardot, early 70s

Romy Schneider on the set of Le trio infernal, 1974. Photo by George Pierre. via http://hollywoodlady.tumblr.com/:

Romy Schneider, 1974, Le Trio Infernal

Silvana Mangano in Gruppo di Famiglia in un Interno (Conversation Piece):

Silvana Mangano, “Gruppo di famiglia in un interno”, 1974

I always thought that Elizabeth Taylor was so sensuous. Here she poses nude behind a sheer veil.:

Elizabeth Taylor, 70s

Catherine Deneuve on the set of The Hunger.:

Catherine Deneuve, The Hunger, 1983

Joan Collins...played a great bitch in dynasty:

Joan Collins, 80s

Charlize Theron:

Charlize Theron

Julianne Moore, “The end of the affair”, 1999

Marion Cotillard by Ellen von Unwerth:

Marion Cotillard by Ellen von Hunwerth

angelina jolie:

Angelina Jolie

suicideblonde:“ Cate Blanchett photographed by Patrick Demarchelier ”

Cate Blanchett by Patrick Demarchelier

Cate Blanchett.:

Cate Blanchett

Kirsten Dunst:

Kirsten Dunst

Keira Knightley. In my opinion, she is by far one of the most beautiful women I've ever seen! She's so classically stunning!:

Keira Knighltly, “The edge of love”, 2008

Luciano Lapadula

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Some Posters from My Fashion Exhibitions

luciano lapadula accademia di belle arti di perugia rapsodia di una diva lyda borelli seminario moda fashion costume satanica festival del cinema di spello 2017

Accademia di Belle Arti Perugia 

 

“Due Gocce di Chanel nr 5” Abiti, profumi e prodotti di bellezza in oltre un secolo di Moda e Costume. Spello Film Festival. 27 feb – 6 mar 2016

 

 

locandina-siamo-donne-lerario-lapadula-lerariolapadula-spello-mostra-moda

“Siamo Donne” Gli abiti dei Grandi Stilisti raccontano le donne del Cinema. 28 Feb – 8 Mar 2015 Festival del Cinema di Spello 2015 Palazzo del Cinema, Spello (PG) “Siamo Donne” (We are women) The clothes of the Great Fashion Designers tell the women of Cinema. 28 Feb – 8 Mar 2015 Spello Film Festival 2015 Palazzo del Cinema, Spello (PG)

 

locandina-piu-reale-della-realta-fake-fashion-exhibition-lerariolapadula-mostra-fashion-curator-abiti-moda

“…Più reale della realtà ”- L immaginario e il Fake
Istallazione sui fake nella Moda.
20 – 21 Mag 2014
Università degli Studi di Bari
Salone degli Affreschi, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

“…Più reale della realtà ” (…More real than reality)
Fake fashion installation.
20 – 21 May 2014
Università degli Studi di Bari
Salone degli Affreschi, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

 

locandina-lerariolapadula-visioni-d-oriente-mostra-fai-selva-di-fasano-minareto-villa-damaso-bianchi-fashion-exhibition-2013

“Visioni D’Oriente”
L’influenza orientale nella Moda anni ‘10 e ‘20 del Novecento.
12 Ago 2013
FAI – Associazione Pro-Selva
Villa Damaso Bianchi, Selva di Fasano (BR)

“Visioni D’Oriente” (Oriental visions)
The Oriental influence in fashion history from ‘10s to ‘20s of the twentieth century.
12 Aug 2013
FAI – Associazione Pro-Selva
Villa Damaso Bianchi, Selva di Fasano (BR)

 

locandina-women-in-progress-la-stoffa-delle-donne-2012-fashion-show-period-dresses-abiti-d-epoca-1860

“Women in progress 1860 – 2012”
La stoffa delle Donne.
15 Dic 2012
Sfilata di abiti d’epoca dal 1860 al 2012 sul tema dell’emancipazione femminile attraverso la Moda.
Provincia di Bari
Via Argiro, Bari (BA)

“Women in progress 1860 – 2012”
La stoffa delle Donne.
15 Dec 2012
Period dresses Fashion Show from 1860 to 2012 with particular reference to the issue of women’s emancipation.
Provincia di Bari
Via Argiro, Bari (BA)

 

locandina-attraverso-il-nero-lerariolapadula-mostra-fashion-curator-abiti-d-epoca

“Attraverso il Nero”
I linguaggi del Nero attraverso una mostra di abiti e accessori femminili del 1800 e 1900.
2 – 13 Lug 2012
Università degli Studi di Bari
Salone degli Affreschi, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

“Attraverso il Nero” (Through the Black)
Black colour in dresses and accessories from 1800 to 2000.
2 – 13 Jul 2012
Università degli Studi di Bari
Salone degli Affreschi, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

 

locandina-donne-in-viaggio-lerariolapadula-mostra-fashion-curator-abiti-d-epoca-giovinazzo-moda-2012

“Donne in viaggio”
L’abito femminile in viaggio, dal ‘900 ai giorni nostri.
24 – 30 Apr 2012
Comune di Giovinazzo – MagentArt
Sala San Felice, Giovinazzo (BA)

 

locandina-150-anni-nei-panni-delle-donne-lerariolapadula-mostra-fashion-curator-abiti-d-epoca-moda

“150 anni nei panni delle donne”
Celebrazione dei 150 anni dell’Unità d’Italia attraverso abiti realizzati da donne italiane.
2 – 13 Lug 2011
Università degli Studi di Bari
Salone degli Affreschi, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

“150 anni nei panni delle donne”(150 years through Women’s dresses)
United Italy 150 years Celebration through women tailors dresses.
2 – 13 Jul 2011
Università degli Studi di Bari
Salone degli Affreschi, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

 

 

locandina-to-be-continued-mad-man-era-50s-60s-fashion-exhibition-lerariolapadula-mostra-fashion-curator-abiti-d-epoca-moda

“[To be continued]”
La Moda ai tempi del serial tv “Mad Man”.
20 – 21 Mag 2010
Università degli Studi di Bari
Auditorium, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

“[To be continued]”
Fashion in “Mad MAn” serial tv era.
20 – 21 May 2010
Università degli Studi di Bari
Auditoium, Palazzo Ateneo (BA)

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“The Macabre and Grotesque in Fashion and Costume History”

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