Circassienne Fashion: Punk style from XVIII sec

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«Fu Mademoiselle Aïssé la donna che lanciò la grottesca tendenza vestimentaria denominata robe à la circassienne. Il suo destino segnò la storia del costume in modo eccezionale: proveniente dalla Circassia, nella zona del Caucaso, bella e insofferente, fu
acquistata al mercato degli schiavi a Costantinopoli dall’ambasciatore di Francia Monsieur de Ferriol. Il suo abito era aperto sul davanti e caratterizzato da ben tre cordoni per essere rialzato sino alla caviglia, maniche più corte di quelle della sottoveste, che invece aveva una cascata di pizzi che giungeva sino al polso.

Ottenuto con tessuti a forti cromie contrastanti e adornato da strisce e inserti animalier, lo stile circassienne anticipò di secoli nella propria essenza lo spirito del punk della seconda metà del Novecento.

Aggressività e stupore, rottura con gli eleganti schemi di uno stile perbenista, origine suburbana sono solo alcune delle affinità che in un volo pindarico congiungono due mondi apparentemente lontanissimi tra loro.»

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«Mademoiselle Aïssé was the woman which launched the grotesque trend called robe à la circassienne. Her destiny signed the history of costume in an exceptional way: coming from the Circassia, in the area of the Caucasus, beautiful and impatient, she was purchased at the slave market in Constantinople by the ambassador of France Monsieur de Ferriol.

Her dress was open at the front and featured from three cords to be raised up to the ankle, sleeves more short of those of the petticoat, which instead had a cascade of lace that cames to the wrist.

Obtained with fabrics with strong colors contrasting and adorned with stripes and animal inserts, the Circassian style she anticipated centuries in its essence the spirit of the punk of the second half of the twentieth century.

Aggression and amazement, break with the elegant schemes of a respectable style, suburban origin they are just some of the affinities that in a pindaric flight  join two worlds apparently very distant between them.»

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The Macabre and the Grotesque

in Fashion and Costume

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Morphine from Belle Époque

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque 1800 victorian 1890 1900 blog fashion moda blogger storia tools ad vintage illustration arte art creepy gothic historia histoire

Mitizzazione e consumo della droga non sono fenomeni moderni, ma provengono da rituali che affondano la propria nascita molto lontano nel tempo. L’arte, nelle sue forme più disparate, ha tracciato dei precisi quadri che descrivono l’utilizzo delle sostanze stupefacenti nell’alternarsi dei periodi storici. E’ affascinante quanto accaduto sul finire dell’Ottocento, quando all’estetica della donna immersa tra corsetti e fiori delicati si alternò quella di una fatale mantide, maledetta e pericolosa. Questa nuova dimensione femminile, emancipata e seducente, destabilizzò i ruoli sociali proponendo un’immagine perversa, sfrontata, impregnata questa volta di profumi oppiacei. Analizzo di seguito una serie di immagini che riguardano la Morfina, una tra le droghe più consumate da queste eroine della perdizione durante la Belle Époque.

Mythologizing and consumption of drugs are not modern phenomena, but come from rituals that sink their birth far in time. The art, in its most disparate forms, has drawn precise pictures that describe the use of drugs in the alternation of historical periods. It is fascinating what happened at the end of the nineteenth century, when the aesthetics of the woman immersed in corsets and delicate flowers alternated with that of a fatal, damned and dangerous mantis. This new feminine dimension, emancipated and seductive, destabilized social roles by proposing a perverse, shameless image, impregnated this time with opiate perfumes. I analyze below a series of images concerning Morphine, one of the most consumed drugs by these heroines of perdition during the Belle Époque.

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Morphine Tools Kit from Victorian Era. Image Courtesy Art.co

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque 1800 victorian 1890 1900 blog fashion moda blogger storia tools

Morphine tools: the syringe

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque blog fashion moda blogger storia tools ad vintage illustration art Georges Moreau dit Moreau de Tours Bois le Roi 1901 ou Les Morphinées Huil

Georges Moreau, La Morphine ou Les Morphinées – Collection particulière, Paris
Expositions : Salon de 1886, Paris, n° 1703 (“La Morphine”)

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque 1800 victorian 1890 1900 blog fashion moda blogger storia tools ad vintage illustration arte art creepy gothic

Morphine Addicts, 1887 Albert Besnard etching Rosenwald Collection

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque 1800 victorian 1890 1900 blog fashion moda blogger storia tools ad vintage illustration Eugène Grasset La vitrioleuse (1894)

Eugène Grasset La vitrioleuse, 1894

Santiago_Rusinol_Before_the_Morphine

Santiago Rusinol “Before the Morphine”, 1894

santiago-rusinol-morphine-1894

Santiago Rusinol-“Morphine”, 1894

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque 1800 victorian 1890 1900 blog fashion moda blogger storia Eugène-Samuel Grasset 'La Morphine' 1897

Eugène-Samuel Grasset — ‘La Morphine’ 1897

1899 Quack Medicine Sufferers From Morphine Or any Drug Habit Vintage Original Print Ad

1899 Quack Medicine Sufferers From Morphine Or any Drug Habit Vintage Original Print Ad

Vittorio Matteo Corcos, La morfinomane – “The addict”, 1899. Famelica e perduta la donna dalla pelle diafana e dai capelli rossi troneggia al posto dell’uomo, avvolta in un fosco abito di veli neri. Ci fissa minacciosa, ed esibisce il suo potere calpestando il  suo trofeo.

The woman with the diaphanous skin and the red hair is dominated and lost in the place of the man, wrapped in a dark dress of black veils. The woman stares at us menacingly, and exhibits her power trampling on her trophy.

morfinomane

Vittorio Matteo Corcos, La morfinomane – “The addict”, 1899

morphine history of drug droga belle eopque 1800 victorian 1890 1900 blog fashion moda blogger storia tools ad vintage illustration cube

Year 1900: Ad for Cube Morphine, published in American Druggist and Pharmaceutical Record, America’s Leading Drugs Journal

Pablo Picasso, Morphinomans. 1900

Pablo Picasso, Morphinomans. 1900

Salon, 1905 Morphine. by A. Matignon

Salon de 1905 – Morphine. By A. Matignon

Victorien du Saussais, La morphine. Vices et passions des morphinomanes (1906)

Victorien du Saussais, La morphine. Vices et passions des morphinomanes, 1906

1910 morphine blog luciano lapadula blogger fashion ied milano moda storia drugs drug belle epoque

Morphinomane 1910 ca.

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1842 – 1969 : five Hairstyles from the past that look incredible contemporary

Senza titolo-7Le acconciature maschili, come avviene per gli indumenti, sono soggette al cambiamento in base alle tendenze del momento. Capita così che alcuni haistyle del passato appaiano come assolutamente contemporanei e glamour. Eccone cinque che ho selezionato per voi.

Men hairstyles, as happens with clothing, are subject to change based on current trends. So it happens that some haistyle of the past appear as absolutely contemporary and trendy. Here are five that I have selected for you.

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1842 Henry Colton Shumway Henry Peters Gray

1842. Henry Colton Shumway by Henry Peters Gray

1923

Beautiful college boy from year 1923

Paris adv 1934

Paris ad from year 1934

Ph. Jules Aarons - “Lighting up, West End”, Boston, 1950s

Ph. Jules Aarons – “Lighting up, West End”, Boston, 1950s

La caduta degli deivisconti heltum berger gay naked hairstyle boy 1969

Dal film “La caduta degli dei” di Luchino Visconti – Heltum Berger -1969

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Cindy Crawford vs Kaia Gerber

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Alcuni giornalisti che operano nel campo del fashion system, insieme a diversi stilisti celebri sia durante gli anni ’90 che oggi, cercano quasi disperatamente di convincerci circa il fatto che Kaia Gerber, giovane figlia della supermodella Cindy Crawford, sia la sosia di sua madre. Si tenta in tal modo – attraverso strategie di marketing – di riproporre la magia che ha contraddistinto le passerelle anni ’90 calcate da Cindy, come se per davvero questa si potesse ripetere, anche solo in parte, grazie alla fisicità di Kaia. Credo sia madre che figlia rispecchino con completezza il proprio tempo. A voi un mio confronto.

Luciano Lapadula

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Some journalists working in the field of the fashion system, along with several famous designers both during the ’90s and today, almost desperately try to convince us of the fact that Kaia Gerber, young daughter of supermodel Cindy Crawford, is a double of her mother. In this way, through marketing strategies, they try to reproduce the magic that distinguished the Cindy runways of the ’90s. I think both mother and daughter fully reflect their time This is my comparison.

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Versace – Yesterday vs Today: Cindy vs Kaia

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Red Swimwear

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From Tv

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Denim Streetstyle

cindy vs daugth

Versace

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Both from Chanel Backstage

cindy crawford

Mother and Daughter

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Little Black Dress

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