Giant Bucket Hats: in fashion from Belle Époque to 2020

Giant Bucket Hats: in fashion from Belle Époque to 2020

Cappelli enormi, stravaganti, che agli albori dello scorso secolo facevano apparire le donne simili a colorati funghi e fiori eleganti. Questa tipologia di copricapo, dalla forma a grande casco rovesciato, ha ripreso linfa nel corso del ‘900 per tornare in auge durante questi ultimi anni. Pressoché disattesa la proposta di Louis Vuitton nella sua fall winter del 2012, il “Bucket Hat” è stato rielaborato da Marc Jacobs e Coach 1941 nella fw del 2017, per riapparire pressoché identico nella collezione Nina Ricci e Dior dell’autunno inverno 2019 – 2020. Ecco una mia accurata selezione per voi.

Giant, extravagant hats, which at the dawn of the last century made women look like colorful mushrooms and elegant flowers. This type of headgear, with a large inverted bucket shape, has taken on new life during the 1900s to come back into vogue during these last few years. Louis Vuitton’s proposal in his 2012 fall winter was almost completely dismissed, the “Bucket Hat” was reworked by Marc Jacobs and Coach 1941 in the fw of 2017, to reappear almost identical in the Nina Ricci and Dior collection of autumn winter 2019 – 2020 Here is an accurate selection I made for you.

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Giant Hat trimmed in fur and Aigrettes. 1911, the beautiful model reminds me Coco Chanel.
Giant Bucket hat, year 1911
Still from Belle Epoque, a young model wearing a Giant Hat.
Louis Vuitton fall winter 2012
Louis Vuitton fall winter 2012
Louis Vuitton fall winter 2012
 Winnie Harlow for Coach 1941 fall winter 2017
Marc Jacobs fall winter 2017
Nina Ricci fall winter 2019 2020
Bucket Hat from Dior fall winter 2019 2020

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Annunci

Barbara La Marr: Heroin & Death in Old Hollywood

Barbara La Marr, young actress addicted to morphine and heroin

«Il via alla moda dell’autodistruzione 
era stato dato qualche anno prima
da Barbara La Marr, 
attrice soprannominata “la troppo bella”, 
consegnata alla storia per esser stata 
la prima morta di overdose da eroina: era il 1926.

Barbara conobbe tutti i tipi di droga, 
conservava la cocaina in un prezioso cofanetto in oro.

Volto struggente, fascino maledetto e distruttivo 
e occhi allucinati furono il dettaglio 
che caratterizzò quella perduta bellezza.»

Dal mio libro

Scheda e Shop qui:

“IL MACABRO E IL GROTTESCO NELLA MODA E NEL COSTUME”

«The fashionable way of self-destruction had been given a few years earlier, however, by Barbara La Marr, an actress nicknamed “the girl who was too beautiful”, consigned to history for having been the first death of a heroin overdose: it was 1926.

Barbara knew everyone the types of drugs, he kept cocaine in a precious gold casket.

A poignant face, damned and destructive charm and hallucinated eyes were the details that characterized that lost beauty.»

From my book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”

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CHAPEAU from 1959 to 2019

CHAPEAU from 1959 to 2019

Il mio lavoro mi porta con frequenza a riscontrare similitudini, copie e brutte copie di abiti e accessori del passato, riproposte nel contemporaneo. Uso il termine “contemporaneo” invece di “moderno” perché ritengo più innovativi gli originali delle copie. Oggi vi mostro il copricapo in pizzo a falda larga sul viso, realizzato per Valentino fall winter 2019 – 2020 e indossato in passerella da Kaia Gerber. Lo stesso design, in tessuto trasparente, fu proposto nel 1959 da Nina Ricci. La modella nelle foto sotto indossa infatti un abito con copricapo chiamato “Jeasmine” e realizzato dal designer Jules-François Crahay (1917–1988), a Belgian-born French fashion artist who worked for the fashion house from 1952 to 1963 . Più sotto una creazione di per Adolfo Sardinia per Emme, sempre dal 1959.

My work frequently leads me to find similarities, copies and bad copies of clothes and accessories of the past re-proposed in the contemporary. I use the term “contemporary” instead of “modern” because I consider the originals of the copies to be more innovative. Today I show you the wide-brimmed lace headgear on the face, created for Valentino fall winter 2019 – 2020 and worn on the catwalk by Kaia Gerber. The same design, in semi-transparent fabric, was proposed in 1959 by Nina Ricci. In fact, the model in the picture below wears a dress together with an hat, called “Jeasmine” and made by the designer Jules-François Crahay (1917–1988), Belgian-born French fashion artist who worked for the fashion house from 1952 to 1963. Last pic: a creation of Adolfo Sardinia for Emme, 1959.

Kaia Gerber in Valentino fw 2019/2020
“Jeasmine” model by NINA RICCI
Adolfo Sardinia hat for Emme

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Piero Tosi. Death in Venice.

È scomparso uno tra i più celebri costumisti italiani famoso in tutto il mondo. Il talentuoso Piero Tosi, che ha brillato nel sodalizio con il regista Luchino Visconti, lavorando anche nella prosa (La locandiera), nella lirica (La sonnambula, Macbeth) e nel cinema (Senso, Rocco e i suoi fratelli, Le notti bianche, Il gattopardo, Morte a Venezia film del 1971, di cui allego alcune drammatiche e struggenti immagini.

One of the most famous Italian costume designers famous all over the world has passed away. The talented Piero Tosi, who shone in the partnership with the filmaker Luchino Visconti, also working in the prose (La locandiera), in the lyric (La sonnambula, Macbeth) and in the cinema (Senso, Rocco e i suoi fratelli, Le notti bianche, Il gattopardo , Death in Venice film of 1971, of which I am attaching some dramatic and poignant images.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

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Björn Johan Andrésen
Dirk Bogarde
Dirk Bogarde
Silvana Mangano

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Ready to Wear from Thierry Mugler ss 1992.

If the concept of “Ready to Wear” approaches “Ready Made”, to the surreal, to the world of art in its many facets. Thierry Mugler spring summer 1992. Supermodels Niki Taylor, Yasmeen Ghauri and Naomi Campbell. The three amazing and different types of beauties of the supermodels create a unique aesthetic picture of its kind. Unrepeatable today. Iconic moments for a style that ironizes on the past, on the present and on the future…on fashion, on the wearability of a dress, on its opulent aesthetics.

Niki Taylor
Yasmeen Ghauri
Yasmeen Ghauri

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Hairstyles Revival in time

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Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

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1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

1920s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 20s cher louise brooks hair

Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

1940s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 40s pinup

Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy elle pageboy

Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

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Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

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1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

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Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are in 2018 on #Valentino runway

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Divas of Fascist Cinema

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography history blogger libro

Il volto scolpito nel marmo, uno sguardo insieme sensuale e spietato che allude all’erotismo più feroce di quei giorni bui. Le labbra violacee evidenziano un sorriso amaro, sprezzante, fiero del proprio sublime incanto. Sono le dive del cinema fascista, in un’Italia umiliata dalla guerra regnano sulle superfici dell’illusione per regalare un sogno a chi di illusione perisce.

The face sculpted in marble, a sensual and ruthless glance that alludes to the most ferocious eroticism of those dark days. The violet lips show a bitter, contemptuous smile, proud of its own sublime charm. They are the divas of Fascist cinema, in an Italy humiliated by war thay all reigns on the surfaces of illusion to give a dream to those who are diyng by illusion.

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alida valli fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Alida Valli – From a Fresh Look to a Dark Lady – Venturini

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography

Alida Valli. Ghergo

luisa ferida

Luisa Ferida

Leda Gloria

Seductive Leda Gloria – Ghergo

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Leda Gloria – Venturini

elisa cegani Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography

Elisa Cegani – Ph unknown

Elisa Cegani magazine italia duce Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography

Elisa Cegani from in “LA CORONA DI FERRO” di Alessandro Blasetti, 1941. Winner of Coppa Mussolini award

clara calamai profondo rosso nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Clara Calami: the first italian “Dark Lady” actress

clara calamai profondo rosso nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography weird blogger

Clara Calamai. I think she worn Ferragamo platform shoes. Could be now

Elsa De Giorgi fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Elsa De Giorgi – Peek-a-Boo hairstyle. Ph Venturini

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A perfect face. Elsa De Giorgi

Doris Duranti hitler nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Amazing Beauty: Doris Duranti, the most loved by dictators

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Doris Duranti, the fascist actress, by Elio Luxardo

isa miranda marlene dietrich nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Isa Mirande: the platinum italian Dietrich

isa miranda marlene dietrich nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography blogger hairstyle make

Isa Miranda, who arrived in Hollywood, was greeted with clamor by the public and by Paramount

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