Hairstyles Revival in time

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Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

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1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

1920s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 20s cher louise brooks hair

Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

1940s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 40s pinup

Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy elle pageboy

Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

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Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

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1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

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Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are in 2018 on #Valentino runway

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The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume History“.

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Annunci

Circassienne Fashion: Punk style from XVIII sec

il macabro e il grottesco nella moda e nel costume history luciano lapadula libro robe à la circassioenne book scrittore fashion magazine blog blogger expert banner

«Fu Mademoiselle Aïssé la donna che lanciò la grottesca tendenza vestimentaria denominata robe à la circassienne. Il suo destino segnò la storia del costume in modo eccezionale: proveniente dalla Circassia, nella zona del Caucaso, bella e insofferente, fu
acquistata al mercato degli schiavi a Costantinopoli dall’ambasciatore di Francia Monsieur de Ferriol. Il suo abito era aperto sul davanti e caratterizzato da ben tre cordoni per essere rialzato sino alla caviglia, maniche più corte di quelle della sottoveste, che invece aveva una cascata di pizzi che giungeva sino al polso.

Ottenuto con tessuti a forti cromie contrastanti e adornato da strisce e inserti animalier, lo stile circassienne anticipò di secoli nella propria essenza lo spirito del punk della seconda metà del Novecento.

Aggressività e stupore, rottura con gli eleganti schemi di uno stile perbenista, origine suburbana sono solo alcune delle affinità che in un volo pindarico congiungono due mondi apparentemente lontanissimi tra loro.»

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«Mademoiselle Aïssé was the woman which launched the grotesque trend called robe à la circassienne. Her destiny signed the history of costume in an exceptional way: coming from the Circassia, in the area of the Caucasus, beautiful and impatient, she was purchased at the slave market in Constantinople by the ambassador of France Monsieur de Ferriol.

Her dress was open at the front and featured from three cords to be raised up to the ankle, sleeves more short of those of the petticoat, which instead had a cascade of lace that cames to the wrist.

Obtained with fabrics with strong colors contrasting and adorned with stripes and animal inserts, the Circassian style she anticipated centuries in its essence the spirit of the punk of the second half of the twentieth century.

Aggression and amazement, break with the elegant schemes of a respectable style, suburban origin they are just some of the affinities that in a pindaric flight  join two worlds apparently very distant between them.»

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From my book:

The Macabre and the Grotesque

in Fashion and Costume

Click on the pic for info.

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The Most Beautiful Suicide

evelyn mchale the most beautiful suicide blog history photo blogger luciano lapadula macabro grottesco libro scrittore

 

Sul biglietto che Evelyn lasciò prima del tragico salto scrisse:

Non voglio che nessuno mi veda, nemmeno la mia famiglia. Fatemi cremare, distruggete il mio corpo.Vi supplico: niente funerale, niente cerimonie. Il mio fidanzato mi ha chiesto di sposarlo a giugno. Ma io non sarei mai la brava moglie di nessuno.
Sarà molto più felice senza di me. Dite a mio padre che, evidentemente, ho fin troppe cose in comune con mia madre

Era una ragazza di soli 23 anni.

Può un suicidio trattenere bellezza e trasformarsi in un’opera d’arte?

Io credo di si. L’elogio della morte di una bella ragazza è atroce e seducente. Da Andy Warhol a David Bowie – nella sua canzone “Jump They Say” – l’esistenza dolorosa di una vita spezzata nel suo fiorire, rende la protagonista un’eroina eterna.

Tratto dal mio libro “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“,

la descrizione dell’accaduto.

 

“Edgar Allan Poe, all’interno del
suo saggio La filosofia della composizione,
scrisse che
«la morte di una bella
donna è senza dubbio l’argomento
più poetico del mondo»
e in proposito
colma di emozione è l’immagine
realizzata per caso dall’allora aiuto fotografo
Robert Wiles il primo maggio
1947.
Riuscì a immortalare la ventitreenne
Evelyn McHale distesa con
elegante ma innaturale compostezza
sul tetto di una limousine dopo un
lungo volo dall’ottantaseiesimo piano
dell’Empire State Building.
La fanciulla appare dolcemente
sprofondata tra le scure lamiere del
veicolo, i vetri infranti, l’acciaio laccato
ricurvo su se stesso per la violenza
dell’impatto, e lei lì, supina come
una bella addormentata in un sonno
senza fiato.
Dal freddo metallo della
vettura emerge prepotente il colore
rosso del raffinato tailleur. Bianca la
camicetta e bianchi i lunghi guantini
che vestono ancora alle mani. I capelli
biondi circondano un volto bellissimo
e dal trucco perfetto. Le calze sono
abbassate. Le braccia sono piegate e
la mano sinistra appare gentile accanto
al volto, socchiusa in un gesto che
sembra sofisticato e fascinoso.
Il suicidio
perde in questo caso l’orrore del
suo significato grazie alla bellezza di
un’immagine che appare come quella
di una rivista di moda. La paradossale
assenza di sangue e di deturpazione,
abbinata alla compostezza del soggetto,
fecero sorgere l’appellativo con il
quale la fotografia venne chiamata:
“il suicidio più bello”.
L’immagine lascia
scaturire una forte contraddizione
nella mente dello spettatore, sedotto
dall’estetica della morte che appare
crudelmente soave.
Vorremmo chiedere
a Evelyn il perché di quel gesto,
la frustrazione per l’incomprensibilità
della sua scelta genera una morbosa
attenzione ai dettagli che raccontano
della sua vita: la bianca sciarpa che
vorticosamente scendeva dalla finestra
raggiungendo il corpo, il porta-
trucco lasciato in disparte insieme al
cappotto ripiegato, la sua lettera di
addio.
Una morte violenta per una
fotografia dalla bellezza immortale.
Questa immagine attraente e insieme
aberrante venne pubblicata
all’interno della rivista “Life” con il
titolo The Most Beautiful Suicide.
La didascalia narrava:
«At the bottom of
the Empire State Building the body
of Evelyn McHale reposes calmly in
grotesque bier, her falling body punched
into the top of a car».
Lo scatto
fu poi rielaborato da Andy Warhol
nel 1962 con il nome: Suicide (Fallen
Body), in un’indagine sul rapporto tra
bellezza, morte e Pop Art.”
Luciano Lapadula

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The Most Beautiful Suicide

On the piece of paper Evelyn left before the tragic leap, she wrote:

I don’t want anyone in or out of my family to see any part of me. Could you destroy my body by cremation? I beg of you and my family – don’t have any service for me or remembrance for me. My fiancé asked me to marry him in June. I don’t think I would make a good wife for anybody. He is much better off without me. Tell my father, I have too many of my mother’s tendencies

She was only 23 years old.

Can a suicide keep beauty and transform into a work of art?

I think yes. The praise of the death of a beautiful girl is terrible and seductive. From Andy Warhol to David Bowie – in his song “Jump They Say” – the traumatic existence of a life broken in its blossom, makes the protagonist an eternal heroine.

Taken from my book “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“,

the description of the fact.

“Edgar Allan Poe, within its essay Philosophy of composition,
wrote that

«the death of a beautiful
woman is undoubtedly the most poetic
topic of the world »

and about this
the image realized by chance
by the former assistant photographer

Robert Wiles on the first of May
1947 is rich of emotion.

He succeeded in capturing the twenty-three years-old
Evelyn McHale lying with
elegant but unnatural composure
on the top of a limousine after a
long flight from the eighty-sixth floor
of the Empire State Building.


The girl seems to be sweetly
collapsed among the dark plates of
the car, the glasses smashed, the lacquered steel
bent on itself because of the violence
of the impact and the girl there, supine as
a sleeping beauty in a breathless
sleep.

From the ice-cold metal of the
car there comes, violently, the red colour
of the sophisticated suit. 
White is the

blouse and white are the long gloves
that still adorn her hands. Her blonde
hair frame a beautiful face
with a perfect makeup. 
The tights are
taken down. abbassate. Her arms are bent and
the left hand seems to be gentle near
the face, half-closed in a gesture that
seems to be sophisticated and charming.

The suicide,
in this case, loses the atrociousness of
its meaning thanks to the beauty of
an image that seems to come from 
a fashion magazine.

The paradoxical
absence of blood and disfigurement,
combined with the composure of the subject,
gave birth to the title with
which the picture was called:
“The Most Beautiful Suicide”.

The image gives
origin to a strong contradiction
in the observer’s mind, seduced
by the aesthetic of death that seems to be
cruelly sweet.

We would like to ask
Evelyn the reason of that gesture,
the frustration for the incomprehensibility
of her choice generates a morbid
attention to the details that
tell her life: the white scarf that
vertically fell from the window
reaching the body,
the beauty case left apart together with the folded coat, her suicide note.

A violent death for a
picture having an immortal beauty.


This charming and simultaneously
aberrant image was published
in the magazine “Life” with the
title The Most Beautiful Suicide.

The caption told:

«At the bottom of
the Empire State Building the body
of Evelyn McHale reposes calmly in
grotesque bier, her falling body punched
into the top of a car».

The shot
has been then redesigned by Andy Warhol
in 1962 with the name: Suicide (Fallen
Body), in a study about the relationship between 
beauty, death and Pop Art.”

Luciano Lapadula

Special Thanks for supporting in translation to

Serena Bartolo trad.serenabartolo@gmail.com

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Evelyn Francis McHale

BIRTH

Berkeley, Alameda County, California, USA
DEATH 1 May 1947 (aged 23)

Manhattan, New York County (Manhattan), New York, USA
BURIAL

Middle VillageQueens CountyNew YorkUSA

evelyn francis mchale 1923

evelyn mchale photo portrait fotografia blog

 

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evelyn-incorrectly-labeled-as-20-years-old-ny-times-may-2-1947

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Nazi Men Aesthetic | Bellezza Maschile nel Terzo Reich

L’oscura voragine entro cui sprofondò l’ideologia nazista fu contraddistinta da una singolare antinomia che vide il trionfo di un’ossessiva ricerca della perfezione estetica alternarsi a una morale scellerata. All’animo turpe di molti soldati del Terzo Reich corrispondeva un’apparente contraddittoria bellezza fisica, quasi come fosse necessaria a purificare la crudeltà dei loro pensieri. Attraverso questa serie di immagini la mia ricerca esibisce lo splendore del male e il travestimento del ripugnante, che generano una euritmia spaventosa.

The obscure chasm in which the Nazi ideology collapsed was marked by a singular antinomy that saw the triumph of an obsessive pursuit of aesthetic perfection alternating with a nefarious morality. To the turbulent mind of many soldiers of the Third Reich corresponded an apparent contradictory physical beauty, almost as if it were necessary to purify the cruelty of their thoughts. Through this series of images my research exhibits the splendor of evil and the disguise of the repugnant, which generates a frightening eurythmy.

ss german soldier beautful gay men nazi nazism hot blog luciano lapadula

© SS young pretty soldier. Beautiful innocent face, in contrast with the skull on the hat

marseille

© Hans Joachim MarseilleHansJoachim Walter Rudolf Siegfried Marseille was a German fighter pilot during World War II. A flying ace, he is noted for his aerial battles during the North African Campaign. Marseille claimed all but seven of his 158 victories against the British Desert Air Force over North Africa

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© Early in his career, he was transferred from JG-52 by his commander, the famous Johannes “Macky” Steinhoff who said, “Marseille was remarkably handsome”

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© Hans-Joachim Marseille in North Africa

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Group of nazi soldiers

Young Waffen-SS soldie

Young Waffen-SS soldier

The Kam brothers, left-right Poul, Soren and Erik nazi beauty boys men soldiers gay blog blogger fashion luciano lapadula

© Poul, Soren and Erik: The Kam brothers.
They volunteered and fought in the 5th SS division, Wiking

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© Soren Kam. Soren was the CO of the Schalburg corps, a Danish element of the SS, was alleged to have been involved in the theft of the Jewish birth records in Denmark, so they could be efficiently deported/exterminated, recipient of the Knights Cross and was #5 on the Jews most wanted list before his death

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© Ludwig Kepplinger (31 December 1911 — 26 August 1944) was a Sturmbannführer (Major), in the Waffen-SS during World War II who was awarded the Knight’s Cross of the Iron Cross

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Joachim Peiper

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Captured German soldiers by Canadian soldiers 1943 c.

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Erich “Schmidtchen” Schmidt (

Værnepligt

During the battle – 1943

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© Sweet and Beautiful junior army officer

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© Look as a 90s JPG model. Kriegsmarine/German Sailor

Helmut Oberlander beautiful nazism nazi beauty men boy man blog gay moda fashion history

© Helmut Oberlander (born 15 February 1924) is a former Canadian citizen who was a member of the Einsatzgruppen death squads of Nazi Germany in the occupied Soviet Union during World War II. Oberlander is on the Simon Wiesenthal Center’s list of most wanted Nazi war criminals

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© Gerhard “Gerd” Barkhorn (20 March 1919 – 8 January 1983) was the second most successful fighter ace of all time after fellow Luftwaffe pilot Erich Hartmann, the two people to ever exceed 300 confirmed victories

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from Nazi Marine

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Kriegsmarine

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Kriegsmarine

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© SS Untersturmführer Havvo Lübbe 1942

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luciano lapadula nazismo bellezza blog moda fashion costume storia nazi gay beauty soldiers ss beautiful men boys blogger

Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.
Shop my Book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”. Click on the pic for info.