Some copies from past – Spring Summer 2020

Spring Summer 2020. Guardando le sfilate mi sono accorto di dettagli che spaziano dal trucco alle calzature. Dettagli che sono spesso brutte copie di cose passati. Spesso in molti dimenticano le mode trascorse, così giornalisti e pubblico pensano si tratti di elementi frutto di creatività e innovazione. Vediamone alcuni.

Spring Summer 2020. Looking at the fashion shows I noticed details ranging from make-up to footwear. Details that are often bad copies of past things. Often many people forget the fashions passed, so journalists and the public think that these elements are that are the result of creativity and innovation. Sometimes, often, it is better the original. Let’s see three of them.

Style should celebrate individuality through the Twiggy’s make-up of the 60s, with the intention of emphasis the look, asserts Gucci Beauty. We are at Milan Fashion Week
and the models come on stage with bleach eyebrows covered with thick and dark artificial eyelashes. I personally believe that sometimes it would be better just copying from the past, avoiding slipping in a result lacking in sense, research. What do you think? In my comparison, on the left Gucci (ph Vogue Italia), in the right Twiggy in the 60s.

In my comparison Sharon Tate 1968 vs Mugler at his Paris Fashion Week SS 2020.
The unkempt eyebrows and fixed towards the other are not new. Ps: not even the eyeliner line is new, Chanel had already done it.

Pierre Cardin sequin gown, 1965 and Pierre Balmain on runway in Milan, 27/09/2019 for his ss 2020, ph Vogue Italia. Different dresses, same mood.

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche 1976-77 and Celine prêt-à-porter ss 2020

Boots with a particular design, which have the heel taken from the red “Delman” shoes, preserved at the Met Museum and dated 1937 – 1939. The upper part is instead a mix between the cuissardes of Roger Vivier, 1967, and the creations of André Courreges, in the photo year 1970.

A little curiosity, which has nothing to do with the above. In June I made two sketches for a project, revisiting some constriction shirts for the characters, based on their oppressed identities. What a surprise yesterday, to see that Gucci developed the same concept. On the left, my figures on the right, the images of Vogue Italia from Spring Summer 2020

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“The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”.

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Giant Bucket Hats: in fashion from Belle Époque to 2020

Giant Bucket Hats: in fashion from Belle Époque to 2020

Cappelli enormi, stravaganti, che agli albori dello scorso secolo facevano apparire le donne simili a colorati funghi e fiori eleganti. Questa tipologia di copricapo, dalla forma a grande casco rovesciato, ha ripreso linfa nel corso del ‘900 per tornare in auge durante questi ultimi anni. Pressoché disattesa la proposta di Louis Vuitton nella sua fall winter del 2012, il “Bucket Hat” è stato rielaborato da Marc Jacobs e Coach 1941 nella fw del 2017, per riapparire pressoché identico nella collezione Nina Ricci e Dior dell’autunno inverno 2019 – 2020. Ecco una mia accurata selezione per voi.

Giant, extravagant hats, which at the dawn of the last century made women look like colorful mushrooms and elegant flowers. This type of headgear, with a large inverted bucket shape, has taken on new life during the 1900s to come back into vogue during these last few years. Louis Vuitton’s proposal in his 2012 fall winter was almost completely dismissed, the “Bucket Hat” was reworked by Marc Jacobs and Coach 1941 in the fw of 2017, to reappear almost identical in the Nina Ricci and Dior collection of autumn winter 2019 – 2020 Here is an accurate selection I made for you.

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Giant Hat trimmed in fur and Aigrettes. 1911, the beautiful model reminds me Coco Chanel.
Giant Bucket hat, year 1911
Still from Belle Epoque, a young model wearing a Giant Hat.
Louis Vuitton fall winter 2012
Louis Vuitton fall winter 2012
Louis Vuitton fall winter 2012
 Winnie Harlow for Coach 1941 fall winter 2017
Marc Jacobs fall winter 2017
Nina Ricci fall winter 2019 2020
Bucket Hat from Dior fall winter 2019 2020

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Back in fashion: 1916 and New Look

La moda, si sa, è fatta di eterni ritorni in fatto di stile, gusti, tendenze. E non è questo un fenomeno del tutto contemporaneo, anzi, affonda le proprie origini nella genesi della novità vestimentaria, che a dispetto del vocabolo, di nuovo spesso non ha nulla. Si confronti in proposito lo strano caso che riguarda la regina di Francia Maria Antonietta, discusso nel mio libro “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“. Oggi vi presento la curiosa rielaborazione New Look di una tendenza apparsa nel 1916. Abiti più corti dei precedenti, dai volumi sorprendentemente innovativi, morbidi, con gonne ampie e arricciate sostenute da sottovesti a balze. Colori, fantasie, capricci neo barocchi si spostano così dal ’16 al ’47 per durare questa volta più a lungo. La mia selezione fotografica per voi.

Fashion, as we know, is made up of eternal returns in terms of style, tastes and trends. And this is not a completely contemporary phenomenon, indeed, it has its origins in the genesis of the modern dress, which despite the word, often has nothing of modern. Compare in this regard the strange case concerning the queen of France Marie Antoinette, discussed in my book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“. Today I present to you all the curious New Look reworking of a trend that appeared in 1916. Shorter dresses than the previous ones, with surprisingly innovative volumes, soft, with wide and gathered skirts supported by flounced petticoats. Colors, fantasies, new-baroque trends move from ’16 to ’47 to last this time longer. My photo selection for you.

1916 evening gown
Model in a taffeta dress by Emilio Schuberth, Rome, 1955, photo by G.M. Fadigati
Gabrielle Chanel – Robes de Jersey,1916
Marcelle Dormoy, french couture fashion designer active from the 1910s to 1950, and a former model. 1948
Delineator fashion magazine, July 1916

1948, note the widths and lengths of the skirts, the patern, the necklines:

Jeanne Lanvin, 1916, and Marcel Dormoy 1948:

Fashion sketches fom 1916 and christian dior evening gown 1951.

same irregular cascades of pleated fabrics.

Jeanne Lanvin, 1916
Supermodel Barbara Mullen moeling Balenciaga Dress, 1947
Summer Afternoons dresses from April 1916
Christian Dior ball gown 1947
L’Art et la Mode, 1916
1957, Creators Studios New York
Robes et Chapeaux de Printemps – Le Style Parisien 1916
Cristobal Balenciaga 1948 Pleats, Photo Arik Népo
House of Lanvin 1916
Tailleur bar, House of Dior, 1947
Harvey Nichols day dress, 1916 From the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection at the FIDM Museum
“Ciao Bella” Jacques Fath stripes striped 1952

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Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun: when art meets fashion

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Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) è senza dubbio la più significativa artista donna nella Francia del Rococò. Emancipata, dotata di una raffinata bellezza e di un talento straordinario, ha ritratto personaggi illustri e alla moda durante il regno di Maria Antonietta proseguendo nel periodo Neoclassico. Ho selezionato alcune sue opere analizzando dettagli che raccontano stili e tendenze sorprendenti.

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) is undoubtedly the most significant female artist in Rococo France. Emancipated, endowed with a refined beauty and an extraordinary talent, she portrayed illustrious and fashionable characters during the reign of Marie Antoinette, continuing in that Neoclassical period that is very present in the artist’s canvases. I have selected some of her works by analyzing amazing details.

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Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louis

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour 1778 Elisabeth Louise Vigée

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louise Vigée baroque

1794 Aglae de Gramont, née de Polignac, duchesse de Guiche by Louise Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun

Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, La duchesse de Guise, 1794

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun sefl-portrait 1781

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait 1781 self portrait earring blog fashion history storia moda luciano lapadula wordpress

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782 hat straw flowers moda storia luciano lapadula blog blogger history fashion

elisabeth-louise_vigc3a9e_le_brun_-_portrait_of_marie_gabrielle_de_gramont_duchesse_de_caderousse_-_google_art_project

Portrait of Marie Gabrielle de Gramont, Duchesse de Caderousse, 1784 — Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun

PORTRAIT OF MARIE GABRIELLE DE GRAMONT DUCHESSE DE CADEROUSSE fashion history storia della moda art artwork blog blogger luciano lapadula

Baroness Bonne-Marie-Joséphine-Gabrielle Bernard de Boulainvilli

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Le brun

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Lebrun det fashion bodice red dress luciano lapadula art blog blogger history fashion moda storia

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789

Madame Vigée-Lebrun and her daughter Jeanne Lucie Louise – 1789

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789 neoclassis direttorio

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand, 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793 fashion luciano lapadula blog blogger magazine history moda storia scrittore

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Circassienne Fashion: Punk style from XVIII sec

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«Fu Mademoiselle Aïssé la donna che lanciò la grottesca tendenza vestimentaria denominata robe à la circassienne. Il suo destino segnò la storia del costume in modo eccezionale: proveniente dalla Circassia, nella zona del Caucaso, bella e insofferente, fu
acquistata al mercato degli schiavi a Costantinopoli dall’ambasciatore di Francia Monsieur de Ferriol. Il suo abito era aperto sul davanti e caratterizzato da ben tre cordoni per essere rialzato sino alla caviglia, maniche più corte di quelle della sottoveste, che invece aveva una cascata di pizzi che giungeva sino al polso.

Ottenuto con tessuti a forti cromie contrastanti e adornato da strisce e inserti animalier, lo stile circassienne anticipò di secoli nella propria essenza lo spirito del punk della seconda metà del Novecento.

Aggressività e stupore, rottura con gli eleganti schemi di uno stile perbenista, origine suburbana sono solo alcune delle affinità che in un volo pindarico congiungono due mondi apparentemente lontanissimi tra loro.»

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«Mademoiselle Aïssé was the woman which launched the grotesque trend called robe à la circassienne. Her destiny signed the history of costume in an exceptional way: coming from the Circassia, in the area of the Caucasus, beautiful and impatient, she was purchased at the slave market in Constantinople by the ambassador of France Monsieur de Ferriol.

Her dress was open at the front and featured from three cords to be raised up to the ankle, sleeves more short of those of the petticoat, which instead had a cascade of lace that cames to the wrist.

Obtained with fabrics with strong colors contrasting and adorned with stripes and animal inserts, the Circassian style she anticipated centuries in its essence the spirit of the punk of the second half of the twentieth century.

Aggression and amazement, break with the elegant schemes of a respectable style, suburban origin they are just some of the affinities that in a pindaric flight  join two worlds apparently very distant between them.»

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From my book:

The Macabre and the Grotesque

in Fashion and Costume

Click on the pic for info.

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Marlene and Madonna 1933 – 1993

Madonna per la propria immagine ha sempre attinto, con bravura e intelligenza, al look di grandi dive del passato. Paragono solo una tra le tante estetiche riprodotte dalla cantante, che scelse di ispirarsi ala star Marlene Dietrich, come lei camaleontica e anticonformista.

L’attrice, nel 1933, è ritratta in una serie di scatti conturbanti e colmi di glamour, la cantante ripropose un look assai simile quando, nel 1993, fu ospite di Pippo Baudo nel programma Partita Doppia, attraverso cui sponsorizzò il proprio film Body of Evidence. Era una magnificata serata.

Luciano Lapadula

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Madonna has always drawn with skill and intelligence, to the look of the great divas of the past to build its image. They compare only one of many aesthetic reproduced; inspired by the singer actress, chameleon and unconventional, Marlene Dietrich.

The actress is portrayed in a series of shots in 1933, the singer revisited the same look when, in 1993, was the guest of Pippo Baudo in the program Double Match, through which sponsored her film Body of Evidence.

Le immagini:

Dietrich

Actress Marlene Dietrich in white suit aboard the SS EUROPA, in May 1933

Actress Marlene Dietrich in white suit aboard the SS EUROPA, in May 1933

 

marlene dietrich

Marlene Dietrich with her husband, Rudolf Sieber, at a train station in Paris. Amazing suit, coat, sunglasses. Suit by Chanel.

 

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Marlene Dietrich 1933, suit by Chanel

 

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Marlene in Chanel, 1933

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Outift by Chanel, 1933

madonna flat cap 1993 dietrich

Madonna, Partita Doppia, January 1993

 

partitadoppia3

Madonna i RAI studios, January 1993

 

partita_doppia_04

Madonna interview by Pippo Baudo, Rai Uno, January 1993

partita_doppia_01

Madonna interview by Pippo Baudo, Rai Uno, January 1993

marlene dietrich and madonna in suit 1933 1993 rai baudo movie cinema flap hat suit trousers 30s 90s raiuno filippo crossdressing men look outfit fashion

Marlene Dietrich, January 1933 – Madonna, January 1993

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Tarakànova Princess: history of a tragedy

Bella come la più tragica tra le figure femminili nella storia, enigmatica come una sciarada senza tempo, la giovane principessa Tarakànova fece la propria comparsa sulle scene della politica nel 1772, durante il regno della Zarina Caterina II di Russia.

Alla morte di Elizaveta Petròvna, figlia di Pietro il Grande, la giovane comparve dall’ombra dell’ignoto sotto il nome di principessa Vladimirskajaasserendo di essere la figlia segreta, unica erede, della deceduta imperatrice e per tanto legittima erede al trono.

Minata nel ruolo di sovrana, Caterina II ordinò che la giovane, rifugiatasi in Italia, fosse catturata. Avrebbe dovuto occuparsi del rapimento il Conte Grigorij Orlòv, che tuttavia una volta incontrata la donna se ne innamorò perdutamente, venendo corrisposto. Giunti in Russia a bordo di una nave, il giovane cercò in ogni modo di salvarle la vita, scoperto, venne insieme a lei condannato a morte.

Come nelle favole dall’epilogo più triste, la bella principessa fu imprigionata nella fortezza dei SS. Pietro e Paolo a Pietroburgo, dove circondata da topi e avvolta dalle tenebre morì, secondo la leggenda, annegando in seguito alla storica inondazione del 1777. Altre fonti invece asseriscono la bella sia morta nella sua cella durante il 1775, malata di tisi.

Pittori, letterati e registi internazionali hanno dedicato a questo controverso e affascinante personaggio tele intense, pagine drammatiche e metri di pellicola intrisi di sentimento. Una curiosità, nel film del 1938 compaiono due artisti ancora sconosciuti: Anna Magnani, nel ruolo di un’aggressiva cameriera, e Alberto Sordi in quello di uno studente condotto al patibolo. Alberto era giovane e la barba non gli era cresciuta, dovette indossarne una posticcia realizzata dal truccatore di scena.

Ecco alcune significative immagini.

Luciano Lapadula

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As beautiful as the most tragic female figures in history, enigmatic as a timeless charade, the young princess Tarakanova made her appearance on the political scene in 1772, during the reign of the Tsarina Catherine II of Russia. On the death of the Empress Elizaveta Petròvna, daughter of Peter the Great, under the name of Vladimirskaja princess, the girl appeared from the shadows of the unknown claiming to be her secret daughter and therefore legitimate to the throne. Worried to loose her  role of Empress, Catherine II ordered that the woman, refuges in Italy, was captured by Count Grigory Orlov, who however once met the woman fell in love with her.

Once in Russia on board a ship, the young man did all he could to save her life, when their love story was discovered, the both were sentenced to death. As in the saddest tales, the beautiful princess was imprisoned in the fortress of SS. Peter and Paul, surrounded by rats and shrouded by darkness she died, according to legend, drowned after the historic flooding that took place in St. Petersburg in 1777. Other sources assert she ed in her cell in 1775. Painters, writers and international filmmakers dedicated to this controversial and fascinating character, intense paintings, dramatic pages and meters of film soaked feeling.

 Here are a few pictures.

Luciano Lapadula

Risultati immagini per TARAKANOVA Grigorij Danilevskij

“La principessa Tarakànova”, Gregorij Danilevskij, 1883

FLAVITSKY princesa tarakànova dying in prison luciano lapadula wordpress blog fashion macabre book

Konstantin Flavitsky: Princess Tarakanova, drowning in the Peter and Paul Fortress at the Time of the Flood, c. 1864, oil on canvas. State Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow.

FLAVITSKY, Konstantin Dmitriyevich (1830-1866) Princess Tarakanova, in the Peter and Paul Fortress at the Time of the Flood, detail 1864

Konstantin Dmitriyevich FLAVITSKY, (1830-1866) Princess Tarakanova, dying in the Peter and Paul Fortress at the Time of the Flood, detail 1864

princess-tarakanova v.mikulina movie 1910

Frame from a movie by Kaj Hansen e A.Maitre. “Pincess tarakanova”, with V. Mikulina, 1910

Tarakanova is a 1930 French historical drama film directed by Raymond Bernard and starring Édith Jéhanne

Tarakanova Movie Poster,1930 French historical drama film directed by Raymond Bernard and starring Édith Jéhanne

Édith Jéhanne in Tarankova movie frame

tarankova poster

Tarakanova Movie Poster

Édith Jéhanne in Tarankova

Édith Jéhanne in Tarankova, 1930

tarakanovie poster movie film

Poster from the movie, 1930

tarakanova movie poster

Poster from the Movie, 1930

pricesa tarakanova 1938 movie poster

Princesa Tarakanova, 1938. Cast movie: Annie Verany and Pierre Richard Willm, Pricesa Tarakanova, with the collaboration of filmaker Mario Soldati

Mario Soldati anna magnani alberto sordi la principessa tarakanova film postr 1938

Fedor Ozep with Mario Soldati, Fascism ads movie poster, 1938 Italian edt

Tarakanova movie 1938 french editions

Princess Tarakanova, French Poster edt, 1939

Édith Jéhanne tarakanova

Édith Jéhanne as Soeur Dosithée in Tarakanova,1930

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