Back in fashion: 1916 and New Look

La moda, si sa, è fatta di eterni ritorni in fatto di stile, gusti, tendenze. E non è questo un fenomeno del tutto contemporaneo, anzi, affonda le proprie origini nella genesi della novità vestimentaria, che a dispetto del vocabolo, di nuovo spesso non ha nulla. Si confronti in proposito lo strano caso che riguarda la regina di Francia Maria Antonietta, discusso nel mio libro “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“. Oggi vi presento la curiosa rielaborazione New Look di una tendenza apparsa nel 1916. Abiti più corti dei precedenti, dai volumi sorprendentemente innovativi, morbidi, con gonne ampie e arricciate sostenute da sottovesti a balze. Colori, fantasie, capricci neo barocchi si spostano così dal ’16 al ’47 per durare questa volta più a lungo. La mia selezione fotografica per voi.

Fashion, as we know, is made up of eternal returns in terms of style, tastes and trends. And this is not a completely contemporary phenomenon, indeed, it has its origins in the genesis of the modern dress, which despite the word, often has nothing of modern. Compare in this regard the strange case concerning the queen of France Marie Antoinette, discussed in my book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“. Today I present to you all the curious New Look reworking of a trend that appeared in 1916. Shorter dresses than the previous ones, with surprisingly innovative volumes, soft, with wide and gathered skirts supported by flounced petticoats. Colors, fantasies, new-baroque trends move from ’16 to ’47 to last this time longer. My photo selection for you.

1916 evening gown
Model in a taffeta dress by Emilio Schuberth, Rome, 1955, photo by G.M. Fadigati
Gabrielle Chanel – Robes de Jersey,1916
Marcelle Dormoy, french couture fashion designer active from the 1910s to 1950, and a former model. 1948
Delineator fashion magazine, July 1916

1948, note the widths and lengths of the skirts, the patern, the necklines:

Jeanne Lanvin, 1916, and Marcel Dormoy 1948:

Fashion sketches fom 1916 and christian dior evening gown 1951.

same irregular cascades of pleated fabrics.

Jeanne Lanvin, 1916
Supermodel Barbara Mullen moeling Balenciaga Dress, 1947
Summer Afternoons dresses from April 1916
Christian Dior ball gown 1947
L’Art et la Mode, 1916
1957, Creators Studios New York
Robes et Chapeaux de Printemps – Le Style Parisien 1916
Cristobal Balenciaga 1948 Pleats, Photo Arik Népo
House of Lanvin 1916
Tailleur bar, House of Dior, 1947
Harvey Nichols day dress, 1916 From the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection at the FIDM Museum
“Ciao Bella” Jacques Fath stripes striped 1952

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Portraits of prostitutes from 100 years ago

Misterioso e schivo E.J. Bellocq nel 1910 iniziò la propria carriera di fotografo in America, dilettandosi con la realizzazione di immagini a fine commerciale. Svolse la propria attività a New Orleans, dove nel quartiere a luci rosse di Storyville realizzò centinaia di fotografie immortalando prostitute colte in pose sensuali, intime, drammatiche. Il quartiere venne distrutto nel 1917, e furono perduti anche moltissimi scatti di Bellocq, che morì in solitudine nel 1949. La gloria, postuma, lo vide trionfare solo a partire dal 1966, quando Lee Friedlander scoprì in un antiquario a New Orleans sue numerose inedite fotografie, che divennero presto oggetto di importanti mostre e pubblicazioni, tra cui Storyville Portraits (1970) e Red Light District of New Orleans (1996).

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Mysterious and shy E.J. Bellocq in 1910 began his career in USA as a photographer, delighting with the creation of images for commercial purpose. He carried out his activities in New Orleans, where he realized hundreds of photographs immortalizing prostitutes in the red light district of Storyville. They were caught in sensual poses, intimate, dramatic. The neighborhood was destroyed in 1917, and were lost too many shots of Bellocq, who died in solitude in 1949. The glory, posthumous, saw him triumph only since 1966, when Lee Friedlander discovered in an antique shop in New Orleans his numerous unpublished photographs, which soon became the subject of major exhibitions and publications, including Storyville Portraits (1970) and Red Light District of New Orleans (1996).

© COPYRIGHT Luciano Lapadula

Some photos – Alcune immagini:

Storyville Portrait, New Orleans

Storyville Portrait, New Orleans

Risultati immagini per e. j. bellocq

Risultati immagini

E’ mezzanotte, la ragazza beve mente Bellocq realizza lo scatto. Splendide le sue calze a strisce, bellissima la miniatura di un salottino esposta al piano più basso del mobiletto:

Storyville Portrait, New Orleans

it is midnight and she is drinking. I love the thumbnail of the living room located on the lower floor of the display. Love her stripes socks.

Storyville Portrait, New Orleans

Body and soul decay, no more mistery.

Storyville Portrait, New Orleans

she wears a jumpsuit

Immagine correlata

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Shop my Book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”.
Click on the pic for info.