Barbara La Marr: Heroin & Death in Old Hollywood

Barbara La Marr, young actress addicted to morphine and heroin

«Il via alla moda dell’autodistruzione 
era stato dato qualche anno prima
da Barbara La Marr, 
attrice soprannominata “la troppo bella”, 
consegnata alla storia per esser stata 
la prima morta di overdose da eroina: era il 1926.

Barbara conobbe tutti i tipi di droga, 
conservava la cocaina in un prezioso cofanetto in oro.

Volto struggente, fascino maledetto e distruttivo 
e occhi allucinati furono il dettaglio 
che caratterizzò quella perduta bellezza.»

Dal mio libro

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“IL MACABRO E IL GROTTESCO NELLA MODA E NEL COSTUME”

«The fashionable way of self-destruction had been given a few years earlier, however, by Barbara La Marr, an actress nicknamed “the girl who was too beautiful”, consigned to history for having been the first death of a heroin overdose: it was 1926.

Barbara knew everyone the types of drugs, he kept cocaine in a precious gold casket.

A poignant face, damned and destructive charm and hallucinated eyes were the details that characterized that lost beauty.»

From my book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”

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Annunci

Piero Tosi. Death in Venice.

È scomparso uno tra i più celebri costumisti italiani famoso in tutto il mondo. Il talentuoso Piero Tosi, che ha brillato nel sodalizio con il regista Luchino Visconti, lavorando anche nella prosa (La locandiera), nella lirica (La sonnambula, Macbeth) e nel cinema (Senso, Rocco e i suoi fratelli, Le notti bianche, Il gattopardo, Morte a Venezia film del 1971, di cui allego alcune drammatiche e struggenti immagini.

One of the most famous Italian costume designers famous all over the world has passed away. The talented Piero Tosi, who shone in the partnership with the filmaker Luchino Visconti, also working in the prose (La locandiera), in the lyric (La sonnambula, Macbeth) and in the cinema (Senso, Rocco e i suoi fratelli, Le notti bianche, Il gattopardo , Death in Venice film of 1971, of which I am attaching some dramatic and poignant images.

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Björn Johan Andrésen
Dirk Bogarde
Dirk Bogarde
Silvana Mangano

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The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“.
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An Actress, a Prince, a car crash

«Nell’estate del 1931 il principe più bello d’Europa, Umberto II di Savoia, fu oggetto di scandalose cronache che raccontavano di un presunto idillio tra il giovane, che si era sposato solo diciotto mesi prima, e la bellissima attrice hollywoodiana Jeanette MacDonald, giunta in Riviera per una vacanza. Il giorno in cui si sarebbe dovuta separare da Umberto, lei era seduta in macchina e lui era alla guida, l’automobile slittò sull’asfalto bagnato facendo sbalzare fuori dall’abitacolo i due. Il volto dell’attrice ne rimase sfigurato, per ricucirle il cuoio capelluto i chirurghi dovettero raderle la bionda chioma. Disperata Jeanette si fece aiutare dal banchiere Maurice Garfunkel che la affidò ai migliori specialisti di New York. La diva sfigurata fu restituita prontamente a Hollywood grazie a un abile intervento di chirurgia plastica.»

Tratto dal mio libro “Il Macabo e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“.

Storie incredibili, aneddoti e curiosità, info e shop al link: https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

«In the summer of 1931 the most beautiful prince of Europe, Umberto II of Savoy, was the object of scandalous chronicles that told of an alleged idyll between the young man, who had married only eighteen months before, and the beautiful Hollywood actress Jeanette MacDonald, come to the Riviera for holydays. The day she was supposed to leave Umberto, she was sitting in the car and he was driving, the car skidded on the wet asphalt, knocking the two out of the cockpit. The actress’s face was disfigured, and to round her scalp the surgeons had to shave her blonde hair. Desperate, Jeanette was helped by the banker Maurice Garfunkel who entrusted her to the best specialists in New York. The disfigured diva was promptly returned to Hollywood thanks to a skilful plastic surgery.»

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Some of my styling. Photoshooting in Berlin.

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Some of the styling I created for a photoshooting in Berlin. Vintage clothes and accessories all from my archive.

Alcuni degli styling che ho creato per lo shooting fotografico realizzato a Berlino. Abiti e accessori d’epoca, dal mio archivio.

Photography Suzana Holtgrave

Mua – Hair Noriko Takayama

Models: Iconic Management – Berlin

in collaboration with Amanda Kastrati and Andreas Weigelt (location)

All right reserved.

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Hairstyles Revival in time

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Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

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1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

1920s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 20s cher louise brooks hair

Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

1940s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 40s pinup

Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy elle pageboy

Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy

Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

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1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

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Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are in 2018 on #Valentino runway

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Divas of Fascist Cinema

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography history blogger libro

Il volto scolpito nel marmo, uno sguardo insieme sensuale e spietato che allude all’erotismo più feroce di quei giorni bui. Le labbra violacee evidenziano un sorriso amaro, sprezzante, fiero del proprio sublime incanto. Sono le dive del cinema fascista, in un’Italia umiliata dalla guerra regnano sulle superfici dell’illusione per regalare un sogno a chi di illusione perisce.

The face sculpted in marble, a sensual and ruthless glance that alludes to the most ferocious eroticism of those dark days. The violet lips show a bitter, contemptuous smile, proud of its own sublime charm. They are the divas of Fascist cinema, in an Italy humiliated by war thay all reigns on the surfaces of illusion to give a dream to those who are diyng by illusion.

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Alida Valli – From a Fresh Look to a Dark Lady – Venturini

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography

Alida Valli. Ghergo

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Luisa Ferida

Leda Gloria

Seductive Leda Gloria – Ghergo

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Leda Gloria – Venturini

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Elisa Cegani – Ph unknown

Elisa Cegani magazine italia duce Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography

Elisa Cegani from in “LA CORONA DI FERRO” di Alessandro Blasetti, 1941. Winner of Coppa Mussolini award

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Clara Calami: the first italian “Dark Lady” actress

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Clara Calamai. I think she worn Ferragamo platform shoes. Could be now

Elsa De Giorgi fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Elsa De Giorgi – Peek-a-Boo hairstyle. Ph Venturini

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A perfect face. Elsa De Giorgi

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Amazing Beauty: Doris Duranti, the most loved by dictators

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Doris Duranti, the fascist actress, by Elio Luxardo

isa miranda marlene dietrich nazismo nazi diva gothic fascismo cinema Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici nazi beauty creepy moda fashion history photography

Isa Mirande: the platinum italian Dietrich

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Isa Miranda, who arrived in Hollywood, was greeted with clamor by the public and by Paramount

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Circassienne Fashion: Punk style from XVIII sec

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«Fu Mademoiselle Aïssé la donna che lanciò la grottesca tendenza vestimentaria denominata robe à la circassienne. Il suo destino segnò la storia del costume in modo eccezionale: proveniente dalla Circassia, nella zona del Caucaso, bella e insofferente, fu
acquistata al mercato degli schiavi a Costantinopoli dall’ambasciatore di Francia Monsieur de Ferriol. Il suo abito era aperto sul davanti e caratterizzato da ben tre cordoni per essere rialzato sino alla caviglia, maniche più corte di quelle della sottoveste, che invece aveva una cascata di pizzi che giungeva sino al polso.

Ottenuto con tessuti a forti cromie contrastanti e adornato da strisce e inserti animalier, lo stile circassienne anticipò di secoli nella propria essenza lo spirito del punk della seconda metà del Novecento.

Aggressività e stupore, rottura con gli eleganti schemi di uno stile perbenista, origine suburbana sono solo alcune delle affinità che in un volo pindarico congiungono due mondi apparentemente lontanissimi tra loro.»

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«Mademoiselle Aïssé was the woman which launched the grotesque trend called robe à la circassienne. Her destiny signed the history of costume in an exceptional way: coming from the Circassia, in the area of the Caucasus, beautiful and impatient, she was purchased at the slave market in Constantinople by the ambassador of France Monsieur de Ferriol.

Her dress was open at the front and featured from three cords to be raised up to the ankle, sleeves more short of those of the petticoat, which instead had a cascade of lace that cames to the wrist.

Obtained with fabrics with strong colors contrasting and adorned with stripes and animal inserts, the Circassian style she anticipated centuries in its essence the spirit of the punk of the second half of the twentieth century.

Aggression and amazement, break with the elegant schemes of a respectable style, suburban origin they are just some of the affinities that in a pindaric flight  join two worlds apparently very distant between them.»

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From my book:

The Macabre and the Grotesque

in Fashion and Costume

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