Some copies from past – Spring Summer 2020

Spring Summer 2020. Guardando le sfilate mi sono accorto di dettagli che spaziano dal trucco alle calzature. Dettagli che sono spesso brutte copie di cose passati. Spesso in molti dimenticano le mode trascorse, così giornalisti e pubblico pensano si tratti di elementi frutto di creatività e innovazione. Vediamone alcuni.

Spring Summer 2020. Looking at the fashion shows I noticed details ranging from make-up to footwear. Details that are often bad copies of past things. Often many people forget the fashions passed, so journalists and the public think that these elements are that are the result of creativity and innovation. Sometimes, often, it is better the original. Let’s see three of them.

Style should celebrate individuality through the Twiggy’s make-up of the 60s, with the intention of emphasis the look, asserts Gucci Beauty. We are at Milan Fashion Week
and the models come on stage with bleach eyebrows covered with thick and dark artificial eyelashes. I personally believe that sometimes it would be better just copying from the past, avoiding slipping in a result lacking in sense, research. What do you think? In my comparison, on the left Gucci (ph Vogue Italia), in the right Twiggy in the 60s.

In my comparison Sharon Tate 1968 vs Mugler at his Paris Fashion Week SS 2020.
The unkempt eyebrows and fixed towards the other are not new. Ps: not even the eyeliner line is new, Chanel had already done it.

Pierre Cardin sequin gown, 1965 and Pierre Balmain on runway in Milan, 27/09/2019 for his ss 2020, ph Vogue Italia. Different dresses, same mood.

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche 1976-77 and Celine prêt-à-porter ss 2020

Boots with a particular design, which have the heel taken from the red “Delman” shoes, preserved at the Met Museum and dated 1937 – 1939. The upper part is instead a mix between the cuissardes of Roger Vivier, 1967, and the creations of André Courreges, in the photo year 1970.

A little curiosity, which has nothing to do with the above. In June I made two sketches for a project, revisiting some constriction shirts for the characters, based on their oppressed identities. What a surprise yesterday, to see that Gucci developed the same concept. On the left, my figures on the right, the images of Vogue Italia from Spring Summer 2020

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Festival del Cinema di Spello: ho premiato i costumi di “La Pazza Gioia” – Me at Spello Film Festival

Si è appena conclusa la sesta edizione del Festival del Cinema della Città di Spello e dei Borghi Umbri, unica rassegna attraverso la quale vengono premiate le “professioni del cinema”, ossia il lavoro svolto con fatica da quanti operino dietro la cinepresa.

Nei giorni precedenti la serata conclusiva ho avuto il piacere di tenere dei seminari riguardanti il cinema e la moda presso il Palazzo del Comune di San Gemini, l’Accademia di Belle Arti di Perugia e l’Istituto di Moda Cavour di Perugia.

Il Festival ha la direzione artistica del regista Fabrizio Cattani, presidente è Donatella Cocchini. Quest’anno la serata conclusiva è stata presentata dal giornalista Vittorio Introcaso affiancato da Simona Fiordi, che per l’occasione ha indossato un abito firmato Pierre Balmain proveniente dal mio archivio.

Tanti gli ospiti illustri presenti al Teatro Subasio la sera di sabato 4 marzo, tra loro il regista Pupi Avati che ha ricevuto il “Premo all’Eccellenza“.

Ho avuto il piacere e l’onore di conferire il premio alla costumista Katia Dottori per il film “La Pazza Gioia” di Paolo Virzì. L’appuntamento è per l’edizione del 2018, ma prima ci saranno grandi novità per questo Festival e per tutti voi.

The sixth edition of the Film Festival of the City of Spello and the Borghi Umbri has just ended. It is the only exhibition through which the “cinema professions” are rewarded, ie the work done with difficulty by those who work behind the camera.

In the days preceding the final evening I had the pleasure of holding seminars on cinema and fashion at the Palazzo del Comune of San Gemini, the Academy of Fine Arts in Perugia and the Istituto di Moda Cavour of Perugia.

The Festival has the artistic direction of the director Fabrizio Cattani, president is Donatella Cocchini. This year the final evening was presented by the journalist Vittorio Introcaso flanked by Simona Fiordi, who for the occasion wore a Pierre Balmain dress from my archive.

Many illustrious guests present at the Teatro Subasio on the evening of Saturday, March 4, among them the director Pupi Avati who received the “Premo all’Eccellenza”.

I had the pleasure and the honor of awarding the award to costume designer Katia Dottori for the film “La Pazza Gioia” by Paolo Virzì. The appointment is for the 2018 edition, but first there will be big news for this Festival and for all of you.

luciano lapadula spello film festival 2018 2017

Durante la proclamazione con Vittorio Introcaso e Simona Fiordi

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