Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun: when art meets fashion

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Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) è senza dubbio la più significativa artista donna nella Francia del Rococò. Emancipata, dotata di una raffinata bellezza e di un talento straordinario, ha ritratto personaggi illustri e alla moda durante il regno di Maria Antonietta proseguendo nel periodo Neoclassico. Ho selezionato alcune sue opere analizzando dettagli che raccontano stili e tendenze sorprendenti.

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) is undoubtedly the most significant female artist in Rococo France. Emancipated, endowed with a refined beauty and an extraordinary talent, she portrayed illustrious and fashionable characters during the reign of Marie Antoinette, continuing in that Neoclassical period that is very present in the artist’s canvases. I have selected some of her works by analyzing amazing details.

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Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louis

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour 1778 Elisabeth Louise Vigée

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louise Vigée baroque

1794 Aglae de Gramont, née de Polignac, duchesse de Guiche by Louise Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun

Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, La duchesse de Guise, 1794

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun sefl-portrait 1781

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait 1781 self portrait earring blog fashion history storia moda luciano lapadula wordpress

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782 hat straw flowers moda storia luciano lapadula blog blogger history fashion

elisabeth-louise_vigc3a9e_le_brun_-_portrait_of_marie_gabrielle_de_gramont_duchesse_de_caderousse_-_google_art_project

Portrait of Marie Gabrielle de Gramont, Duchesse de Caderousse, 1784 — Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun

PORTRAIT OF MARIE GABRIELLE DE GRAMONT DUCHESSE DE CADEROUSSE fashion history storia della moda art artwork blog blogger luciano lapadula

Baroness Bonne-Marie-Joséphine-Gabrielle Bernard de Boulainvilli

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Le brun

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Lebrun det fashion bodice red dress luciano lapadula art blog blogger history fashion moda storia

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789

Madame Vigée-Lebrun and her daughter Jeanne Lucie Louise – 1789

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789 neoclassis direttorio

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand, 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793 fashion luciano lapadula blog blogger magazine history moda storia scrittore

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Italian Fashion Icons from Renaissance

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Prima delle francesi le donne italiane furono considerate maestre di eleganza. L’elegante tra le eleganti, vera e propria icona rinascimentale, fu la Marchesa di Mantova Isabella d’Este Gonzaga che ideava i propri abiti e le proprie pettinature, e amava utilizzare i profumi. al punto che essa stessa si definiva “la prima perfumera del mondo”. L’Archivio di Stato di Mantova custodisce un’ampia serie di corrispondenze dei Gonzaga, e numerosi sono i riferimenti al mondo della moda, del lusso, delle tendenze vestimentarie. Insieme a Isabella, definita dai suoi contemporanei come “la prima donna del mondo”, maestre di stile di quel tempo furono sua sorella minore Beatrice, sua cognata Lucrezia Borgia, la modella Simonetta Vespucci,  chiamata la “Sans Par” per la sua eccezionale bellezza, la duchessa di Mantova Margherita Paleologa e  Laura Bentivoglio da Bologna. Erano le  italiane a lanciare mode che venivano seguite poi dalle corti del resto d’Europa, avanguardiste e attente a cambiare sempre indumento per evitare di essere imitate dalle donne di ceto inferiore. Isabella, vera pioniera, fu una tra le prime donne del proprio tempo a indossare i calzoni al di sotto delle gonne, spendeva ingenti somme di denaro per il proprio guardaroba, per i prodotti cosmetici, per le acconciature impreziosite da perle, nastri, capelli posticci. Così si scopre che già nel 1515 Francesco I di Francia chiese proprio a Isabella d’Este di inviargli una “bambola” simile a quella qui sotto (successiva), vestita secondo il suo straordinario gusto, in modo da permettere alle dame francesi di imitare quella moda. Da un altro scritto invece, si apprende che fu proprio la regina di Francia Caterina de Medici a inviare uno scampolo di tessuto in seta alla duchessa Margherita chiedendole di far realizzare, con quel tessuto, delle camicie dagli esperti artigiani mantovani. L’Italia, culla del Rinascimento, è stata un esempio di stile, eleganza, cultura per tutto il resto del mondo.

Before the French, Italian women were considered masters of elegance. The elegant among the elegants, true Renaissance icon, was the Marquise of Mantua Isabella d’Este Gonzaga who conceived her own clothes and her hairstyles, and loved to use perfumes. to the point that she was called “the first perfumera of the world”. The State Archives of Mantua, in Italy, hold a wide range of correspondences from the Gonzagas, and there are numerous references to the world of fashion, luxury and clothing trends. Together with Isabella, defined by her contemporaries as “the first woman in the world”, style masters of that time were her younger sister Beatrice, her sister-in-law Lucrezia Borgia, the Duchess of Mantua Margherita Paleologa and Laura Bentivoglio from Bologna. The Italians were launching fashions that were then followed by the courts of the rest of Europe, avant-garde and careful to always change garments to avoid being imitated by lower-class women. Isabella, a true pioneer, was one of the first women of her time to wear trousers under the skirts, she spent huge sums of money for her wardrobe, for cosmetics, for hairstyles embellished with pearls, ribbons, hair extensions. So it turns out that in 1515 king Francesco I of France asked Isabella d’Este to send him a “doll” similar to the one below, dressed according to her extraordinary taste, in order to allow the French ladies to imitate that fashion. On the other hand, we learn that it was the Queen of France, Caterina de Medici, who sent a remnant of silk fabric to the Duchess Margherita asking her to make, with that fabric, some shirts by expert Mantuan artisans. Italy, cradle of the Renaissance, was an example of style, elegance and culture for the rest of the world.

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Leonardo Da Vinci cartone per il ritratto di Isabella d Este Museo del Louvre Parigi

Isabella D’Este – Leonardo da Vinci

Isabella_d'Este_palazzo_ducale

Portrait of Isabella d’Este

tiziano

Isabella D’Este – Tiziano – 1534-1536 c.

Portrait_believed_to_depict_Margherita_Paleologo_by_Giulio_Romano

Margherita Paleologo – Giulio Romano

Opnamedatum: 2010-01-28

Artwork by Carlo Crivelli – 1476

Bianca Maria Sforza cousin and sisterinlaw of Isabella of Aragon Duchess of Milan

Bianca Maria Sforza – Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis – 1493

luciano lapadula blog detil art hairstyle rinascimento

Stunning Detail

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Renaissance Jewelry

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Necklaces

Bartolomeo Veneto

Lucrezia Borgia – Bartolomeo Veneto

1480_portrait_of_simonetta_vespucci_as_nymph_2k

Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510), Idealized Portrait of a Lady (Portrait of Simonetta Vespucci as Nymph), ca. 1475

Lorenzo Costa Portrait of A Woman with Pearl Necklace c1490

Lorenzo Costa – Portrait of A Woman with Pearl Necklace – c. 1490

Portrait of Giovanna degli Albizzi Tornabuoni by Domenico Ghirlandaio c1488

Portrait of Giovanna degli Albizzi Tornabuoni by Domenico Ghirlandaio c. 1488

domenico ghirlandaio Cappella tornabuoni Nascita di san giovanni battista dettaglio

Cappella Tornabuoni – Nascita di San Giovanni Battista – det. Domenico Ghirlandaio

Parmigianino_007

Antea – Parmigianino – 1535 c.

Giovan Battista Moroni 1570

Il Sarto – Giovan Battista Moroni – 1565-1570 c.

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Divas Beyond a Veil.

Mistero, ambiguità e seduzione sono peculiarità che appartengono a molte tra le star del cinema. Da sempre, e con molta frequenza, la loro immagine conturbante è amplificata grazie all’utilizzo di veli che ricoprono il volto, conferendo carisma e magnetismo.

Il drappo di una veste, per merito del cinema e della fotografia, ha perso la funzione di mero rivestimento del corpo per esibire lo stesso con sensualità, svelandolo in segreto. Non più tessuto utile a coprire, bensì pizzo, rete, seta adoperati per svestire i soggetti fotografati, lasciando immaginare allo spettatore fattezze, carattere, atmosfere inattese e maliziose.

Lo sguardo dell’icona giunge a noi filtrato dal lembo di un tessuto prezioso, la cui grana seduce e mantiene le distanze dal piacere accennato, che resta in ombra.

Ecco alcune immagini che ho raccolto.

************

Often the provocative image of Diva is amplified by the use of veils that cover her face, conferring charme and mistery. Thanks to the cinema and photography, this garment lost its only function of dress to exhibit the body with sensuality, unveiling a secret. No more useful fabrics to cover, but lace, net, silk used to undress the actress in movies and pictures, leaving viewers to imagine the features, character, atmospheres.

Gloria Swanson photographed by Edward Steichen for a 1924 Vanity Fair.:

Gloria Swanson by Edward Steichen, 1924

Gloria Swanson by Ellen Graham:

Gloria Swanson by Ellen Graham

Lili Damita @@@@@......http://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1920s-fashion-in-photographs/  ......€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€:

Lili Damita, 20s

Joan Crawford in the 1920s, Photo by Ruth Harriet Louise #1920s #lace #hat:

Joan Crawford by Ruth Harriet Louise, late 20s

Brigitte Helm| 1906-1966 | a German actress, best remembered for her dual role as Maria and her double, the Maschinenmensch, in Fritz Lang's 1927 silent film Metropolis:

Brigitte Helm, 1927

anna mae wong:

Anna May Wong, Limehouse Blues, Travis Banton, 1934

Anna May Wong -

Anna May Wong, 1934

Jean Harlow:

Jean Harlow, 30s

PETRICHOR:

Bette Davis, 30s

Classic Beauties : Marlene Dietrich:

Marlene Dietrich, 1940, John Engstead

Marlene Dietrich in

Marlene Dietrich, “Just a Gigolo” 1978

Frances Farmer, 1930s - They made a bio-film about her life (very tragic) Jessica Lang played Frasncis:

Frances Farmer early 40s

Ava Gardner:

Ava Gardner, 40s

Actress Lana Turner in a wonderful polka dot veil adorned hat, 1940s. #vintage #hats #1940s:

Lana Turner, 40s

Detail of a photo of Vivien Leigh by Cecil Beaton for Vogue, Paris, November 1944:

Vivien Leigh by Ceceil Beaton, Vogue, 1944

Gina Lollobrigida:

Gina Lollobrigida, 50s

Audrey Hepburn photographed at Ealing Studios, London, 1951 Classic Hollywood Stars:

Audrey Hepburn, Ealing Studios, London, 1951

Audrey, with the infamous Givenchy mask in How To Steal a Million. This movie is wonderful.:

Audry – Givenchy, “How to steal a Million”, 1966

Capucine in Marie-Christiane, 1953. Photo Guy Arsac:

Capucine, Guy Arsac, 1953

Marilyn Monroe photographed by Bert Stern, 1962:

Marilyn Monroe by Bert Stern, 1962

Marilyn Monroe was looked at as a fashion icon and she has also had a great impact on what we wear today.- Caroline m:

Marilyn as a Virgin?

Sophia Loren, 1960s.:

Sophia Loren, early 60s

Sophia Loren:

Sophia Loren with veil turban

Virna Lisi, reportage sul set di “Oggi, domani, dopodomani” (Eduardo De Filippo, 1965)  Photo Angelo Frontoni:

Virna Lisi, “Oggi, domani e dopodomani”, 1965

Brigitte Bardot - 1960's:

Brigitte Bardot, early 70s

Romy Schneider on the set of Le trio infernal, 1974. Photo by George Pierre. via http://hollywoodlady.tumblr.com/:

Romy Schneider, 1974, Le Trio Infernal

Silvana Mangano in Gruppo di Famiglia in un Interno (Conversation Piece):

Silvana Mangano, “Gruppo di famiglia in un interno”, 1974

I always thought that Elizabeth Taylor was so sensuous. Here she poses nude behind a sheer veil.:

Elizabeth Taylor, 70s

Catherine Deneuve on the set of The Hunger.:

Catherine Deneuve, The Hunger, 1983

Joan Collins...played a great bitch in dynasty:

Joan Collins, 80s

Charlize Theron:

Charlize Theron

Julianne Moore, “The end of the affair”, 1999

Marion Cotillard by Ellen von Unwerth:

Marion Cotillard by Ellen von Hunwerth

angelina jolie:

Angelina Jolie

suicideblonde:“ Cate Blanchett photographed by Patrick Demarchelier ”

Cate Blanchett by Patrick Demarchelier

Cate Blanchett.:

Cate Blanchett

Kirsten Dunst:

Kirsten Dunst

Keira Knightley. In my opinion, she is by far one of the most beautiful women I've ever seen! She's so classically stunning!:

Keira Knighltly, “The edge of love”, 2008

Luciano Lapadula

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